YOSEMITE's Backcountry is, to me, one awesome place to be. I avoid the more touristy Yosemite Valley due to the crowds, noise, vehicular traffic and "people-acclimated wildlife." It takes some work to reach the true backcountry, but once you're there, your life will be changed forever. I shall endeavor to briefly describe a trek I made with my buddies, Eric and Tom C. in August of 1997.
We entered first the Hoover Wilderness at Robinson Creek Trailhead, out of Twin Lakes, near Bridgeport, California (Hwy. 395). Day one took us past Barney Lake and on to Peeler Lake, about 8.0 miles and a climb from 7,200' to 9,600'. We passed through mountain sagebrush along the way to Barney Lake, an unexpected sight. The way is moderately strenuous as far as Barney Lake, but then encounters more serious climbs through the lodgepole, fir and pine forest on the way to magnificent Peeler Lake. Bring your pole, as the lake and brook trout are delicious and plentiful. I could have stayed at Peeler Lake for another day or two, but our eight day trek was to cover more than 60 miles, so we moved on at daybreak.
Day two took us about twelve miles through the openness of Kerrick Meadow, over Seavey Pass and to Benson Lake. Wet stream crossings, an occasional deer, a soothing break along Rancheria Creek, and an abrupt up and down over Seavey Pass, brought us to Benson Lake. The spectacular view of Volunteer Peak (10,200') and the sound of melting snow plunging into the lake waters was not lost on us as we slept without tents on the sandy beach.
Day three and day four covered an unnecessary but beautiful six mile side loop-trip to Neall Lake and Rodgers Lake - oh, the trout were sumptuous. We ended Day four at Smedberg Lake, 9,200' elevation. Shallow points, where rock beds rose almost to the lake's surface and meant warmer waters, made for excellent swimming for the brave. We stayed an extra day to rest, allow tired feet to mend, and enjoy the beauty. I can't describe the awesomeness and beauty, so I won't try - suffice it to say that I was awe struck, and I've been in the Swiss Alps and Colorado Rockies.
L to R - Mike (yeah, me), Eric and Tom C. at granite-ringed Smedberg Lake
Day six found us ascending Benson Pass (est. 10,000' elevation), then dropping through lodgepoles into Matterhorn Canyon. I saw a nested Golden Eagle. After a wet ford, we camped for the night, a seven mile trek behind us, and feasted on magnificent brook trout. Thank you, Tom C. for all of your expert fishing.
Day seven brought a nine mile hike through Matterhorn Canyon, walled in by 11,161' high Quarry Peak, 11,920' Whorl Peak, and 11,200' Finger Peaks, up the very strenuous switchback ascent and over snow-packed 10,640' Burro Pass. Don't forget to look back frequently at the amazing panorama. A curious Marmot greeted me as I topped the pass. The photo below is taken atop Burro Pass. The Sawtooth Ridge is incredibly beautiful - 12,264' high Matterhorn Peak rises at the right of the photo. We dropped through the snowfield to an alpine meadow and the beginnings of Piute Creek, where we opted for our second bath since leaving Bridgeport, seven days earlier. This cleansing involved buckets of 33 degree water - fresh snow melt. We hiked on to the base of Slide Mountain (yes, I didn't like that name, and for good reason: a cataclysmic slide had occurred here many years earlier, bringing down a 1,400' high wall of granite), where we camped.
L to R - Eric (he's really short - he just looks tall), Mike and Tom C. with Sawtooth Ridge.
Day eight took us over 10,460' Mule Pass, across an intimidating, steep snowfield, then down a steep and rocky trail to 9,600' Crown Lake. I pushed on solo the rest of the way to Twin Lakes to report an aircraft debris field I'd discovered in Matterhorn Canyon. I got out at about 5PM after a good 16 mile hike, just ahead of a raging thunderstorm. My last day covered more than fifteen miles, a strenuous climb over Mule Pass and a somewhat perilous snowfield crossing, but the exhilaration I felt was indescribable. Tom C. and Eric stayed at Crown Lake that night, where they encountered their first rain storm of the trip. Pushing on the next morning, they dropped down along Robinson Creek, back to Barney Lake and then Twin Lakes, where I met them, freshly shaved and showered, my belly still round from the T-Bone, baked potato, bottle of Cabernet and Bananas Foster I'd enjoyed the night before; this before retiring for the night in the comfort of clean sheets.
If you'd like to try this trip, Bridgeport makes an excellent rendezvous spot (good motels and restaurants); the drives back west via Yosemite Valley to the south or Sonora Pass to the north include marvelous views. July through September are the best months to make this trek. Just click on the AllExpert Site button on the Main Page to ask me more!
Thank you, Eric and Tom C. for making this trip one of my greatest ever.
Click Here for US Forest Service - Hoover Wilderness - Humboldt-Toiyabe Forest - Bridgeport Ranger District - [HCR 1 Box 1000, Bridgeport, CA 93517 / Tel: (760) 932-7070]. This is where you'll obtain Permit.
Click here for Yosemite National Park
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