Mojave's Endangered Desert Tortoise
Mojave's Endangered Desert Tortoise
I first visited the Mojave National Preserve, along with Lin and our two dogs Bentley and Katie, over the 2002 Thanksgiving weekend. This was a Jeep, Off-Highway adventure, during which which we explored backcountry areas, traveling over barely-maintained routes requiring 4WD Low gearing to safely handle steep grades and tricky washes. Lin was mortified - more than on our horseback trek in the Emigrant Wilderness, which took her along precipitous cliffs, swaying atop her trusty steed, Freda. But, in the end, Lin had seen and lived first-hand what 4-wheeling can bring to one - the sights and challenges of navigating the backcountry. And it's a darn sight easier than carrying fifty pounds on one's back. It also enable one to see more in a single day than backpacking would deliver in three days.
View west from Hole-in-the-Wall Campgrounds
Our four day trek ended on the third day after torrential rains (and even some hail and snow) made solo off-road trekking too dangerous - one should always, when possible, enjoy off-road exploration in teams. We went solo, but only after leaving our day-by-day plans with Lin's sister. I estimate that 3" of rain fell within a twenty-four-hour period, which filled the washes and forebode possible flash floods.
We visited Mitchell Caverns, where guided tours exposed us to stalactites, stalagmites, shields and draperies, not to mention harmless bats. We visited Kelso Depot, an historic railway depot; we camped at the Granite Pass wilderness area, then at the improved Hole-in-the-Wall campgrounds. We checked out the Rings Trail (only for hardy hikers) and Four Wheeled through the Providence Mountains from Kelso Dunes to Mitchell Caverns via Foshay Pass. Along the way, near Foshay Pass, we passed Vulcan Mines, an abandoned silver mine.
We accessed the Preserve some 77 miles east of Barstow, off I-40 at Kelbaker Road. We camped in perfect solitude about 6.1 miles north of I-40 near spectacular granite formations in a "off-road" camping area. My only regret was witnessing the tragedy of "trash" strewn about with no regard for nature or others. It was disgusting. We carried out as much trash as we could, and disposed of it when we reached civilization. I use that word loosely. Why do pigs carry in full containers, yet find it too much of an effort to carry the empties out? Excuse the anger, but there is simply no reason for this vulgar and irresponsible behavior.
Sights to see include Kelso Dunes; Cima Cinder Cones; Hole-in-the-Wall; Mitchell Caverns; and Soda Dry Lake, among others. The wildflowers bloom in splendid colors during April and May. You must, if owning a 4-WD vehicle, drive the historical Mojave Road. Old cavalry forts and other historical landmarks dot the way. The geology is incredible. Take lots of water (this is, after all, a desert). Pre-check tires, radiator, gasoline, and battery.
One thing that attracted us to the Mojave National Preserve was that they allow dogs, on leashes, anywhere, including the backcountry, except in the Mitchell Caverns, themselves. Most National Parks permit dogs on paved surfaces, in improved campgrounds, and elsewhere, in vehicles, only. A sensible warning, however - desert cacti and other spiny plants, and rattlesnakes can pose a serious threat to unwary dogs, as can the occasional mountain lion. Please protect your buddy from such dangers. I took canine boots along, just in case, but really never needed them.
The desert is an incredible place - it's definitely not just sand!
