"In the Canyon"
Laura and Kathy first contacted me seeking assistance in planning a four day trek into the Grand Canyon in April of 2003, but after much effort they found that the limited number of Permits were all distributed. Not deterred, they opted for the Havasupai Indian Reservation, which lies west of the main Grand Canyon area. The following represents their trip, which, by the way, they loved.
Laura (left) and Kathy (right), their smiles telling us how much fun they had, wisely sport their new trekking poles. The awesomeness of the canyon walls and the starkness of the topography, while beautiful, require that every visitor to the back country beware. Extreme heat and exposure to the baking sun, limited water availability and precarious cliffs, trails and rocks must be given a full measure of caution and preparation.
Hey, Laura and Kathy, what happened to those new, clean boots? Did the helicopter behind you drop off cold beer and burgers? No! Shame on them. Seriously, every cloud of kicked-up-dust brings with it another fantastic vista ahead. The helicopter belongs to a commercial operation providing transportation to the canyon for those who wish to experience the area without having to make the hike.
OK! Laura's boots - well traveled at this point - the sign of experiences had.
Laura and Kathy, having never ventured out alone into
such intimidating environs as the Grand Canyon territory, a land so powerful and
dangerous that some of Major Wesley Powell's 1869 expedition’s men had threatened mutiny in
the jaws of the raging Colorado River, stopped a short distance into their first
day’s hike and shed tears at the mere awesomeness and promise of the adventure
to come. What a moment that must
have been for them both.
The following tale of their four day trek into Hualapai
Canyon and Havasu Canyon on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, which lies west of the usual Grand
Canyon destinations, I hope will inspire more women to venture out with a sense
of confidence and anticipation of wondrous things to be experienced.
Laura and Kathy followed some basic personal safety tips, and their
journey was therefore all they had hoped for and much more.
A sixty-five mile back country drive in their rented
Chrysler Sebring convertible, an upgrade courtesy of Kathy as a gift to Laura
for her upcoming June 18th birthday, ended at Hualapai Hilltop, where the two intrepid
backpackers pulled on their loaded packs, took hold of their trekking poles and
marched off into the unknown. The
full parking lot gave them the false impression that the way would be well
traveled by other hikers on that day, but that proved not to be the case.
Helicopter rides and mule rides proved to be the reason for the full
parking lot. It was
Kathy was a newcomer to trudging along with a full backpack
on sometimes-narrow and steep trails, but she handled them well.
The plunge into
Laura had made two prior trips to the
Kathy was new to this backpacking idea, and had never slept in a tent before. Hurrah to her for her courage and confidence. Despite some concern for her knees, Kathy set a comfortable and safe pace on trails, which can be at times intimidating. Both Laura and Kathy made excellent use of their trekking poles, and feel that trekking poles are essential for Grand Canyon area hikes. Kathy relied on Laura to lead the way, as Laura had "been there - done that" to some extent.
On day 2, April 8, 2003 Laura and Kathy hiked to
Day 3,
Laura and Kathy decided in advance to avoid discussing
the War to Liberate
The two women had
followed my tip to hydrate well for the week before the trip, and Laura feels
that really paid off in how well she felt the whole time. Daytime
temperatures hovered in the mid 70s to low 80s, with nights in the high 40s - Fahrenheit.
As they departed camp on Day 4 (April 10, 2003) Laura and Kathy gave their remaining stove fuel to some campers they'd met - a nice gesture, as they could not transport it back to New Hampshire with them. They made better time climbing back out of the Canyon - the work seemed this time. One unusual fact about the Havasu Falls area, as with many other Grand Canyon locales - the high volume of water flowing into and down the Colorado River makes both peeing and bathing with moderate amounts of biodegradable soap and shampoo in the rivers and major creeks more desirable than doing so on their gravel shores, where the hot sun increases odors.
This trip left a lasting impression – it had an indelible
impact on both Laura and Kathy. The solitude, the absence of the noises we all become accustomed to, but
consciously notice only when it’s not present, and the absence of any schedule
or demands struck these women noticeably. Languishing
beside the refreshing waters of Havasu and Mooney
Laura and Kathy are professional women over 40 years of age - Laura's a private tutor and former teacher to learning disabled and emotionally challenged children. Kathy is a nurse, working with state services to provide at-home programs and assistance to needy children. Neither Kathy nor Laura have children of their own. One thing that helped to make the trip so wonderful and rewarding is that Kathy and Laura "flowed well together." They were perfectly compatible, a great match, vital to a happy outing.
HIKING ALONE / SOLO HIKING / FEMALE HIKERS –Solo Hiking is a
controversial topic. Some people would tell you that it is reckless and
unnecessarily dangerous. Others would insist that it’s safe and sane. The
truth is that both sides are correct to one extent or another. I don’t want to
encourage inexperienced hikers to try solo hiking, but I also don’t wish to
discourage experienced hikers from trying the solitude and adventure. Assuming
that you are considering a solo hike, here are some tips which may mean the
difference between a safe and fun hike and a disaster in the making:
a.
Know the area you plan to explore. If you haven’t hiked it
before, study maps and guidebooks; talk to local Rangers or Forest Service
professionals about the area and any likely dangers you might face.
b.
Leave a detailed itinerary and marked-up map with someone.
Make sure they know your vehicle license plate number. Check in with the Ranger
or Forest Service Center – promise to check-out with them, and DO IT!
c.
Carry a complete Emergency Pack. A Cellular phone is a must,
if not for you, then for the peace-of-mind it will bring to your loved ones.
d.
Know which “potentially dangerous” creatures you might
encounter, and know what to do in the event that you have a face-to-face
encounter. See Tip #4, above. In bear country (especially Grizzly country),
carry Bear-strength Pepper Spray. Since you won’t be conversing (except to
yourself, perhaps), bear bells might be a good idea – or sing to your
heart’s desire. Let the bears and lions hear your approach. Now, I violate
this piece of advice quite a bit – especially when I am in search of wildlife.
But you need to know that a quiet approach, while increasing the odds of seeing
wildlife, also increases the odds of your startling the wrong “feller.”
Alone, you are far more vulnerable to attack by Mountain Lions and Bears. Be
alert. Listen for rustling or huffing sounds. Check to your rear and above
occasionally, especially in heavy undergrowth areas and spots where trails run
beneath overhanging rocks or trees. Lions tend to follow their prey for awhile,
looking for the ideal spot to spring an ambush. Your high-carried backpack makes
you look too large for a lion and also protects your neck against attack;
daypacks do not afford this protection. Carry a snake bite kit and know how to
use it – current thinking warns against cutting into the bite and untrained
use of a tourniquet.
e.
Avoid tackling dangerous conditions such as unstable
hillsides or treacherous waters. Be patient. Seek an alternative crossing or
trail. Remember: you’re alone and a simple injury could turn life threatening.
f.
Women are generally at higher risk than men. First, they tend
to be smaller, and therefore easier prey for Mountain Lions and Bears. More
important, they are at higher risk from encounters with men – unfair, perhaps,
but a fact-of-life that they need to accept. Encounters with “crazies” are
far more likely on day hikes and within five miles of a trailhead.
g.
Finally, make your first overnight or multi-day backpacking
trek fairly short. Many people find the solitude boring and intimidating. Bite
off a little at a time. Solo hiking and camping isn’t for everyone.
Solo female
hikers and female pairs, as well, need to take additional precautions, though
some of these precautions apply to men as well, albeit to a lesser extent:
·
As stated above, women are generally at higher risk than men.
First, they tend to be smaller, and therefore easier prey for Mountain Lions and
Bears. More important, they are at higher risk from encounters with men –
unfair, perhaps, but a fact-of-life that they need to accept. Encounters with
“crazies” are far more likely on day hikes and within five miles of a
trailhead.
·
Be wary of meeting strangers along the trail. Don’t be
paranoid, just “trail-smart.” Trust your own instincts – if you sense
something isn’t right, say goodbye and put distance between you and the
strangers. Let them know that “the rest of your group” is not far behind. A
white lie could avert danger.
·
If accosted or threatened, remember that your Bear Pepper
Spray works against humans, as well. I
recommend that female hikers always carry bear spray for threatening human
encounters, and that you know how to use it.
·
Camp out of sight of trails – you don’t wish to attract
attention. Camping in a populated site is also a good idea. It might be a
mistake to camp in an empty developed campsite – you never know who might come
along. So, well populated is good
and out-of-sight is good, but developed sites likely to be visited can make you
vulnerable.
·
Female hikers should avoid discussing their plans,
destination, camp site, party size, etc. with strangers, especially in towns
near the trailhead and at the trailhead. Advertising
your vulnerability can lead to dangerous encounters.
·
A large, well-behaved dog can be a deterrent to
“strangers,” too. Even I feel
more relaxed with Katie (100 pound Bouvier des Flanders) at my side on solo
treks.
Click
Here to go to Laura & Kathy's Trip Photo
Gallery
Click Here to go to Havasu Falls Trip & Backpacking Course
Click Here to Return to Utah Hikes Homepage
Click Here to go to Grand Canyon - Great Hikes
Click Here to go to Grand Canyon National Park - Official National Parks Site
Click Here to go to Permit Information
Click Here to go to Xanterra Lodging Web site
Click Here to go to DesertUSA's Fabulous Web site
Click Here for a great, private Grand Canyon Web site
Click Here for info on Mule Rides - private Web site
Click Here to go to Rockhounds - Grand Hikes - excellent site