Clouds Rest & Half Dome - Yosemite National Park

Recently, Craig, a visitor to my Web Site asked for some help in planning a backpacking trip in or around Yosemite Valley. Craig, Tim and Paul, of Cleveland, Chicago and Omaha, completed a marvelous journey up to Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Vernal Falls (via the Mist Trail), exiting on 9/11/01, a day that will forever live in the hearts and minds of Americans and the rest of the world, as well - the day of the World Trade Center terrorist attacks. The following is Craig's account of their trip. Also go to Yosemite National Park - Half Dome & Clouds Rest Photo Gallery page.

"Fabulous introductory Nosedive into Yosemite National Park!" That's how Craig opened his journal. Half Dome was their primary goal in the beginning, but Clouds Rest brought them their most fantastic views. Here are some of their thoughts, descriptions and observations of their first trip to Yosemite:

"We'd heard that one could spend a lifetime trying to see all that Yosemite has to offer, so we wanted to see the best first." We began at the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead, hiking the John Muir Trail (JMT) to Yosemite Valley and exiting at Happy Isles Trailhead, but detouring for the hike of a lifetime to see Half Dome and Clouds Rest from atop. Our roughly 30 mile, three day trip left us craving pizza and beer, and badly in need of a long, hot shower.

Thin air? Hey, we are from the mid west, where, climbing a curb is about the maximum elevation we encounter. We definitely felt the effects of oxygen deprivation, but our physical condition carried us along, helped by the trekking poles we now swear by. We reached Cathedral Peak and Upper Cathedral Lake; it was then that we knew we'd chosen the right trail - WOW! This isn't Omaha, Paul must have thought to himself. We camped the first night at Sunrise High Sierra Camp, where we found plenty of fire rings, running water, but no bears.

Leaving camp, we learned to head west, not south, staying to the right (west) of the stream that runs through the camp, or risk going the wrong way to Clouds Rest Trail. Sunrise Lakes were an unexpected pleasure. Crystal clear waters, great campsites, spectacular views, trout, wildlife, crisp air - a virtual alpine paradise. The most southern of the three lakes was the best.

The climb to Clouds Rest is dry in late summer, so carry plenty of water. Top off your water bottles at every chance. You'll be going over 9,000 feet elevation, and the last three hundred yards will make your heart pound, not just from elevation, but from the narrow, razorback route, which drops off on both sides, and may not be for the acrophobic. But, it beats the heck out of Half Dome's terrifying slopes. The hike was tough; we had full backpacks, and carried extra water, and the ascent was rigorous. From atop Clouds Rest we encountered the most awesome of vistas. This was the absolute best viewing spot on the entire trip. Thanks, Mike, for that tip. We were pumped with the feeling of accomplishment and beauty. We did not stay for the unbelievable sunsets Clouds Rest boasts, but instead headed down towards the Half Dome Trail junction, where we camped.

On day three we tackled Half Dome, then hiked out via Mist Trail. Half Dome is far busier than Clouds Rest, but we started out early and missed the crowds. The ascent is challenging, frightening for many, yet rewarding. We stopped at the cables and asked ourselves just what we had gotten ourselves into. It's darned scary. But it was an experience we will never forget. It defines why we backpack. The views were spectacular, made all the more awesome by the precipitous drops all around us. Standing atop Half Dome is an indescribable moment. Works simply cannot describe it. Neither can one dimensional photos. Oh, and be sure to have your photo taken on the "diving board.,"

We plunged down to Nevada and Vernal Falls, watering at the Merced River before dropping to the valley floor. The Vernal Falls stairway was a study in Man's engineering skills and pure determination. The thousands of stones, fitted together with incredible precision, are mind-boggling.

Overall, we found trails easy to follow and well marked. In late summer, water is not as abundant, especially at higher elevations, so carry plenty, and have your filter handy so you can take advantage of any water you encounter. Wear sturdy hiking boots with rough lug or grip soles. Use trekking poles; they really ease the abuse on one's body. Choose late summer to avoid summer crowds, but reserve your permit early. Look into shuttle bus services; they do stop at many trailheads. Pick up a trail guide (book) ahead of time, if possible.

Continue reading here: 4x4 - Off Road exploration - 4WD

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