AWARDED
FOR WEB SITE CONTENT - JUNE 2006
Although I
cover most of the basics of wilderness survival and backpacking you will need for a safe and rewarding outdoor
experience, I offer far more extensive treatment of each subject in my The
Complete Hiking, Backpacking & Wilderness Survival Manual, which may be
purchased at the
below.
Tip#1 - FIRE STARTING
Tip#2 - EMERGENCY KIT
Tip#3 - LOST? GET FOUND
Tip#5 - BUILDING A WATER STILL
Tip#10 - STAYING ALIVE
Tip#17 - BUILDING A QUINZE OR SNOW CAVE
GO TO MIKE'S BACKPACKING & WILDERNESS
SURVIVAL TREKS (COURSE)
To obtain HikingwithMike's book, The Complete Hiking, Backpacking &
Wilderness Survival Manual, just send a check or money order for $14.95 to
HikingwithMike, PO Box 68, Hurricane, UT 84737. Allow
two to three weeks for delivery. Outside the USA, please add $3.00 to
your order. Or,
to pay by Credit Card Click Here.
TIP#1 – GETTING A FIRE STARTED may be one of the most critical tasks facing you in a survival situation. It is important that you practice getting a fire started so that you’ll know what to do under a crisis situation. Obstacles you may face include wind, rain and wet wood, lack of burnable wood, injury to yourself, etc. Being prepared means having at least three fire starting items available in your emergency pack, and then knowing what to do with them. Here are some ideas:
1. Saturate several cotton balls with Vaseline/petroleum jelly -
store them in a small zip style baggie in your emergency kit. They make great
fire starters. Just light and they'll burn for 5-7 minutes each, plenty of time
to get a good fire going. 2. Carry a few commercially available fire starter
sticks. 3. Carry two or three emergency candles – light one and use it to
light the fire, saving matches which go out in the wind. 4. You should have waterproof matches; flint; and a butane lighter. A mirror or glasses lens may
also be used to focus sunlight onto tinder. An emergency flare can be used as a
last resort. Gather adequate dry tinder – have plenty on hand so your fire
will not go out. Dead wood from rotting trees works great and usually stays dry
on the underside even in rainy weather. Dead/dry pine needles and leaves work
fine. Seek dry tinder under trees and large rocks. Next, gather small branches
– use these to “grow” your fire. Then gather larger branches and limbs. I
carry a small bag of dry tinder in a plastic bag – it weighs virtually
nothing, yet can be a life saver. Also, insect repellant will increase tinder’s
flammability. I recommend a teepee or cone-shaped fire stack for wet weather.
Build your teepee first, using larger branches. Place tinder inside. Start fire.
Feed smaller branches into your fire, careful not to smother it. The heat from
the internal fire will dry the teepee of larger branches. They will soon catch
fire, as well. Once stack collapses onto itself, add more large branches as
needed. In good weather, a pyramid fire works nicely. Lay two large pieces of
wood parallel to one another, then add two on top, perpendicular to the first
two. Continue building your pyramid, closing the sides until the top opening is
quite small. Place tinder and smaller twigs and branches atop the pyramid and
light it. The fire will burn downward and last a long time. DO NOT light your
fire until you are fully prepared. You do not want to waste matches, butane
fuel, etc. Also, the frustration of failure may send you into a panic. You do
not want this to happen. Stack damp wood near your fire to help it dry out.
Stack dry wood under a fully-foliated tree, a tarp or large rock to keep it dry.
Wood that seems too wet to burn can be used after scraping or carving away the
wet outer bark. the inner wood will be dry. Tired of smoke in your face? Build a wall of stones about 12"
to 18" high, opposite your position - it will pull smoke to it. 5. Now for some magic – if you must move to a new location, place a few red coals
in a bundle of green leaves, moss, lichen, and earth – this concoction can be
carried with you safely within a wrap of green grass or large leaves, within a
wrapped bark cone, or in a tin can or other such container. The coals will
smolder for many hours, and be ready to start your next fire. If it begins to
die, simply stop, build a small fire, and then extract new red coals. Finally,
be sure that you fully extinguish your fire – no sense adding a forest fire to
your troubles, right?
TIP#2 - EMERGENCY KIT OR PACK (keep with you at all times): Compass; Map; Water treatment tablets – iodine;
First aid kit (SEE Tip#25 under Beginner Tips for what to put in your First Aid
Kit); 50'rope; 2 emergency candles - great as fire start aid;
Waterproof matches; flint (scrape knife blade against it to create sparks); Butane lighter as backup;
Signal Mirror; Good pocket knife (Swiss Army style); Emergency solar blanket; Emergency tent (optional) (plastic fold-up);
Emergency poncho; Emergency whistle; Sunscreen (optional); 1 pair wool socks; Small flashlight & spare batteries;
2 Granola Bars or Power Bars; Medication you may need, including Aspirin or
non-aspirin pain killer; Extra bootlaces (may second as small ropes);
sewing kit & safety pins; a yard of thin wire; one to three yards of Duct
tape; small bag of salt; Cellular Phone - note that most of the time they will be useless in the mountains, unless you have the
very expensive iridium type; check with local Ranger Station.
note #1: Bear Pepper Spray might be applicable - use only approved spray specifically
formulated for bears - more powerful spray and more potent. It's more expensive
than that made for people - using people spray may only enrage the bear without
deterring an attack. note #2: In winter (snow/freeze conditions) - always have
extra clothing, even on day hikes. note #3: In hot weather, where water may be scarce,
include a large plastic trash bag and 3' long drinking tube in your
Emergency Kit. These two items are all you need to build a simple water
condensation still - See TIP#5.
TIP#3 - IF YOU GET LOST, unless you are expert, stay in one area, where others may expect you to be. Beforehand, make sure someone knows where you'll be and your timetable. Use emergency whistle, signal mirror, smoke from burning green or damp plants. Lay out an "SOS" or "X" using branches, rocks or brightly-colored gear (tent fly, tarp, etc.). Stay calm. Take an inventory of your gear.
How can it be put to good use? Seek shelter early - don't wait for dark or cold. Drink and eat at regular intervals. Don't panic. Panic is your worst enemy. Think. Rest. Drink. You CAN survive!
You can survive about a month without food - YES YOU CAN! You can
survive from 3 to 5 days without water or fluid. Temperatures and
activity level effect this time period. You can die within hours from
lack of shelter. You can die even more quickly from panic-induced
injury. STAY CALM! Sleeping overnight in the wild will likely be
more of an inconvenience than a threat to your life. If you are properly
equipped and prepared, the experience can end up being fun as well as a
challenging event. See Tip#10, below. Also, see Primitive Survival
Skills section.
TIP#5. BUILDING A WATER STILL: Remember that large, transparent plastic sheet
(4' in diameter) and 3’
length of drinking tube I mentioned earlier? Here’s what you can do with these
two items to collect water where no water appears to exist, although the amount
you collect may not be worth the exertion expended in constructing the
still. Find any spot where
it appears water may have existed in wetter weather; dry creek beds, the base of
desert mountains, low areas of drainage, etc. Dig a hole about two feet deep and
three feet in diameter (or smaller, depending on size of plastic sheeting) where it will receive lots of sunshine. Dig a sump in the
center big enough to hold your container. Place a bowl, pot or other
water-retention vessel at the bottom center of hole. You can even cut a section
from one edge of the plastic sheet to form a container. Run the drink tube
(optional) from the container and out of the hole by simply running it under
one edge of the plastic sheeting and to the outside. Make sure the rube is buried so that the
still's 'seal' is not broken. Cover the hole with the
transparent plastic sheet and seal all edges with the excess dirt. The plastic
sheet should be clear/transparent to allow light to pass through. Place a
small (hardball size), smooth stone in
the center of the plastic cover. The stone will cause the condensation on the
inside of the plastic to run to the center, then drip into your retention
vessel. The plastic sheeting should sag in the center about a foot, but should
never contact the sides of the hole. The drink tube allows you to drink without
unsealing your still, which releases heat and slows water collection. The
sunshine (heat) will cause underground water to rise and to condense against the
plastic sheeting. The water, even if it had been saline or tainted, will be safe
to drink right out of the tube. Treat it further by filtering or boiling if it makes you feel better,
but it’s usually unnecessary unless the source of the water was severely
tainted or chemically poisoned. In such cases, filter or boil. This trick works best when you will remain in one place
more than one day, as it takes time to collect enough water to keep you going.
You may also pour polluted or salt water (even urine) into a trough encircling the still,
about ten inches away from its edge, so that the water drains
into the hole through the earth around it. Be sure polluted water does not
touch the plastic sheeting. The earth will filter the polluted water and the
condensation will purify it. It is also possible to place green leaves and lush
grasses against the sides of the hole – they will also release moisture under the heat of the
sun. Now, all of this said, a water still in the desert will probably not
deliver enough drinkable water to make the work entailed in making the still
worthwhile. The still works best where the moisture source is good, such
as with a still near the ocean, where salt water conversion to drinking water is
the goal.
TIP#10 – STAYING ALIVE! When experts and researchers interview survivors of
air disasters, ship wrecks, hostage scenarios, war prisons, wilderness attacks
and misfortunes, they hear the same story beneath the story every time –
survivors keep their wits about them, they believe that they will survive and
they decide on a plan of survival and see it through. Here are a few truisms and
thoughts which may help you in a wilderness survival situation: 1. WATER vs.
FOOD – a human can typically survive up to a month without food, but only
several days or less without water. Food is more important in wintry cases as
your body will require the calories to keep itself warm. When lost, one of your
first concerns after safety, immediate shelter from heat or cold, and the
treatment of any injuries should be water. You must find it. A bandana, sock or
tee shirt can be used to remove dew from wet grasses and leaves. A water still
may save your life (see discussion above under TIP #5). Trap rainwater in rain
gear, tent fly, plastic bag, etc. Seek low areas and areas of lush greenery.
Running out of food is more often of psychological distress than physical. Be
careful what you snack on in the wild. Many plants are poisonous and many
poisonous plants resemble safe ones. All grasses are edible, though usually
offer little reward. You are better off eating insects, frogs, lizards, etc.,
than plants about which you know little.2. CARRY an emergency kit similar to
that described in TIP #2, above. Carry it with you at all times, even when going
to the toilet. You can never know when your camp may be invaded by a bear,
covered by an avalanche or rockslide, or visited by thieves. At least once a
year, replenish items with freshness dates (aspirin, medications, emergency
food, etc.). Everyone in your group over the age of ten or even less depending
on maturity level, should have their own map and compass, emergency whistle,
water purification tablets, pocket knife, poncho and warm clothes, matches and
butane lighter, emergency candles, flashlight and extra batteries, and personal
water supply – at a minimum. Why should only adults have the means to survive?
3. DURING thunder storms, avoid the largest tree, stay off crests or large,
protruding boulders. Both may act as
lightning conductors. Seek shelter amongst lower, similar-height trees or
brush. Groups should spread out with at least 15-30 feet between
members. Stay off ridges and away from large boulders and trees,
especially between 2PM and 6Pm, the most likely summer thunderstorm
period. Avoid marshy areas and wide open areas, as well, during
thunderstorms. There, you will stand out as a target and watery earth
conducts electricity. Get away from metal you may be carrying. Squat on your
sleeping mat, feet together, head covered to protect ears from thunder shock
waves. But, you must understand that none, nor all of these steps guarantee
safety. Lightning is unpredictable, erratic and random - you are always at
risk when you are confronted by thunderstorms in the wilderness. Lightning
can carry 30,000 amps of electricity, and it can penetrate any shelter you may
seek. The spread of the electricity in the ground, through boulders and
water, as well as through the air can reach you no matter your
precautions. Follow the above tips and reduce your vulnerability and
targetability. Last, even in lightning storms, stay dry – wetness hurries hypothermia.4. IF you become
lost – sit down for a while. Gather yourself. Think about your predicament.
Sleeping a night or two in the wild isn’t all that bad. Help will be
dispatched – that’s virtually certain. Do not wait until dark or encroaching
freezing night to seek shelter. Accept early that you are lost – give yourself
at least two hours of daylight when possible to build or find shelter, firewood,
water, etc. Tree branches make great lean-to shelters or teepees. Caves, fallen
trees, rocky overhangs, low-to-the-ground fir trees – all can make ideal
accommodations, but avoid rocky overhangs during lightning storms. Don’t forget your emergency tent (in your kit). A small fire
provides heat and companionship during the dark of night. Drink often. Munch a
little food. Go through your gear and inventory its contents – every item is a
friend. Comfort is nice, but relatively unnecessary to survival. Protection from
the elements, ample water supply and avoiding injury are key to survival. At
daybreak, think about signaling for help. Create smoke using damp or green
foliage. Try your whistle every so often. Lay out colorful gear in a clearing
– use brightly colored clothing, tarp, tent or tent fly, foliage on snow, etc.
Have mirror handy for signaling aircraft or far away searchers. Stay put! Do not
wander about. Movement diminishes chances for being found; increases the chance
of injury; burns vital energy and increases need for water. Use your time
gathering firewood, nursing your fire, replenishing water supply, etc. Praise
yourself for the job you’ve done so far. Feeling good and remaining positive
about your situation is important. In nearly every situation, discovery is but
hours to a few days away. I’m not saying it can’t get worse, of course it
can, but it usually doesn’t. Staying calm and using your head are the key
points to getting out safe.
tip#2
Click on "banner" for great deals on gear.
tip#3
tip#5
tip#10
tip#17
TIP#17- BUILDING A QUINZE OR SNOW CAVE might save your life. A Quinze is an above ground "Igloo-like" structure formed from snow rather than blocks of ice. It can be built for one person or groups of three or four. It may provide an environment up to forty-degrees warmer than the outside environment. It is fairly hard work, so pace yourself. Here’s what to do: 1) pile your gear in a cone shape (draping a tarp over the mass of gear is optional);2) shovel snow onto the gear pile, allowing it to loosely fall onto the pile and re-crystallize; shovel only about a foot or two thick to begin with, compacting the snow as you go;3) after thirty minutes, add more snow, compacting it as you go; every two feet of wall thickness, wait thirty minutes;4) once the structure is large enough for your purposes, compact snow and wait at least one hour and preferably two hours to allow structure walls to fully re-crystallize and harden;5) here’s a trick – insert a number of sticks about two-feet in length so that only six inches protrudes – these "thickness guides" should be spread around the entire surface and point to the center of the structure;6) starting as low to the ground as possible, begin digging an entrance large enough to crawl through – keep the entrance low, even under the wall if possible; remember, warm air rises, so this helps retain heat inside the Quinze;7) carefully remove gear;8) excavate/remove snow inside structure, taking care to stop at sticks you inserted – this will ensure proper wall thickness and stability of walls;9) carefully drill out several "ventilation holes" in the upper half of the structure;10) mark your home with a brightly colored marker so you can find it again in a snowstorm. Large structures may accommodate sleeping benches made of snow and a center cooking table of snow. At night, you may wish to block the entrance to keep out wind – do this only after adding adequate ventilation vents.
In emergencies, when time does not permit the four hours to build and "cure" a Quinze, dig a trench in a snow bank large enough to accommodate your party, cover with sturdy limbs in a weave or criss-cross pattern, and then add branches or even a tarp or tent fly; again, be certain to allow ventilation that snow fall will not plug; lay boughs on the floor to sit or lie on; carefully shovel six inches to a foot of snow over the roof.
The warmth and protection from the wind will astound you and possibly save your life. For a great, light weight and easily carried claw-shovel, click on www.Snowclaw.com.