DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK - HIKINGWITHMIKE
   

 

Death Valley? Why would anyone in their right mind want to go hiking, camping or backpacking in such a God-forsaken place? What about the inferno-like heat? Lack of water? I mean, the name alone should deter anyone from venturing within the boundaries of such an inhospitable place. Right? WRONG!!!

Death Valley National Park is a positively beautiful, awe-inspiring, mysterious and unique land of 3.3 million acres, filled with deep, colorful canyons and narrows; complex geology; Cottonwood-lined oases; 11,049’ Telescope Peak and minus 282’ Badwater; abandoned mines; and marvelous flora and fauna. Bighorn Sheep, Wild Burros, and Kit Foxes might be seen. Ticks and poison oak are not a problem. The secret: visit from mid-November to mid-February, when daytime temps are around 60-85 degrees and nighttime temps are around 35 degrees to 45 degrees. Elevations above 3,000’ will be cooler by about 5 degrees per 1,000’ elevation. Whether you backpack the 26 mile Cottonwood Canyon, Dead Horse Canyon and Marble Canyon loop or just day hike its more accessible doorways, you’ll be fascinated. My friend Frank and I recently (January 2000) spent four superb days doing just that. I highly recommend that you take a four-wheel drive, high clearance vehicle, as many of the best sights and locations are virtually inaccessible without one. My ’98 Jeep Grand Cherokee did wonderfully. It also allowed me to carry firewood and plenty of water to a base camp from which Frank and I hiked and backpacked. Although campfires are formally prohibited in the back country, the Rangers are liberal in enforcing the ordinance, so long as great care is taken - build small fires in a secure container (old BBQ tubs work great); pack out the ashes - DO NOT bury. Do not scorch/blacken rocks; absolutely DO NOT burn any native wood, dead or otherwise. There are so many wonderful attractions. Unlike with most places you’ll ever visit, most trails here are wilderness – that means they are NOT maintained. Most require miles of 4x4 vehicle travel to reach trailheads. Before venturing into Death Valley National Park to hike, camp or backpack, pick up a good book and visit the excellent website [http://www.nps.gov]. This Web Site is a MUST & I've included a link below. It is truly excellent. Enter from the west via Hwy. 190 off of Hwy. 395 at – the visitor/Ranger station is at Stovepipe Wells. Enter from the east off of Hwy. 95 – take Hwy. 267 to Scotty’s Castle; take Hwy. 374 or Hwy. 190, as well, depending on interior destination.

On May 5th (Cinco de Mayo) of 2001, I returned to Death Valley with Tom B., and camped atop White Top Mountain at the head of mammoth Bighorn Gorge, elevation about 6,500 feet.  It took 32.5 miles of off road driving to get there.  We camped alone amongst Pinyon Pines, and enjoyed a forest of Joshua Trees below us.  The absolute silence was magnificent.  So quiet was it that the flames of our containered fire were deafening.  We brought compressed sawdust logs, burned them in a trash can lid, and hauled out the ashes - No Trace Camping.  The desert floor was blanketed in wildflowers, as I've never before witnessed.  We saw brilliant cacti blossoms, Sacred datura, Desert Globemallow, Primrose, Sand Verbena, Desert Gold Poppies, Desert Gold, Desert Five Spot, Mojave Desert-Star, Gravel Ghost, Prince's Plume, Indigo Brush blossoms, Stingbush blossoms, Phacelias, and more.  I wasn't as awe-struck as I'd expected by the Racetrack and its moving stones, but both Tom B. and I were mortified by treacherous Lippencott Road and its dangerous plunge into the Saline Valley.  See Death Valley Photo Page #2.  We drove about 100 miles off road, never touching pavement.  My 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited worked flawlessly, and it made otherwise-impassable Lippencott Road possible.  Grapevine Canyon was an unexpected pleasure, lush and water-cooled.  Oh, and a can of tire flat-fixer came in handy.  We used it on a disabled vehicle at the Racetrack, which we later learned from the Rangers, made it some thirty miles on backcountry, washboard roads to safety.  The stuff really works; I always carry a can or two.  Yes, Frank, we DID see a Burro!

For more info call (760) 786-2331 or write to Death Valley National Park, PO Box 579, Death Valley, CA 92328. Web Site [http://www.nps.gov]- click on link below.

 
 

There are hundreds of miles of 4-WD, backcountry roads available for exploration.  Difficulty of travel ranges from fairly easy to moderately technical.  Great care must be taken on the parks extremely remote backcountry roads, and a good knowledge of maps or GPS systems is vital.   

Visit my special 4-WD Page by clicking on the Jeep icon>>>.  See links on Page for further, excellent information on backcountry 4-WD outings.  

Permits are required for all overnight trips - see phone number above to make reservations.  Absolutely NO ATVs or non-stock / not-licensed-for-road-use vehicles are permitted.  No racing or sport usage is permitted.  

 Be aware - towing charges may be expected to run as high.

Stay on 4WD Roads!  Protect the beauty of Death Valley National Park.  Take plenty of water and have a good spare.