Big Sur / Ventana Wilderness - Lost Valley Hike

It was January 3, 1998 - Monterey County, California - the weather forecast for the next few days was "sunny."  I awoke at 4 AM to a starless sky; I'd gone to sleep under the stars the night before, opting to forego my tent.  Hastily, I gathered my gear and took shelter under the overhang of an outhouse at closed and vacant Escondido Campground.  I'd backpacked the three miles in the night before.  It began raining, then pouring at about 5 AM that morning, and but for a few dry spells of twenty to thirty minutes, rained continuously for the next two days, as I plunged ever forward through the Ventana Wilderness' rugged terrain a distance of 7.9 miles on day one and 20.5 on day two.  I cursed most of the way as I crossed perilous slopes made all the more so by the rain-soaked earth, and navigated dozens of small creeks and minor rivers.  Backpacking 29 miles in two days over steep terrain is challenge enough for most hikers - the constant rain kept me cool, but unsmiling.

April, 1999 I returned to retrace part of my trek into Ventana's Lost Valley.  I did so with Eric, Tom B. and Chris, good hiking buddies.  The weather was splendid, the campsite a welcome and splendid place (considered to be one of Ventana's best), and the hiking and exploring great fun.  What a difference good weather can make.  Lost Valley is one of my favorite destinations in the Ventana Wilderness.

To begin with, you get there by exiting Highway 101 at Jolon Road, immediately north of King City, and heading west.  You drive 17.8 miles south/west on Jolon Road (G14) to a junction with Mission Road - bear right and take Mission Road.  Continue a few hundred yards to a gate - this is the entrance to Hunter Liggett Military Reservation.  Stay on Mission Road until you encounter the military's buildings on your right - slow down - you'll see the old Mission to your left front.  Before you reach it, look for Del Ventura Road, and turn left.  It's not well marked, so go slow.  Once you've turned onto Del Ventura Road, the Mission will be on your right.  You will pass through a normally-wet river crossing within half a mile. Within a mile of turning onto Del Ventura Road, you will bear right as the pavement also branches left.  Del Ventura Road will eventually become Milpitas Road.  Stay on this main road for a good twelve miles, and you will soon come into an area filled with large boulders and rock formations (The Indians).  You are almost to Memorial Park Campground; there you may likely have to abandon your vehicle and hike the three miles to Escondido Campground, a great jumping-off spot for your trip into the wilds.  In the late Spring and Summer you will probably be able to drive to Escondido Campground.

DAY 1 - Your destination will be Lost Valley Camp, a good, solid hike of 5.8 miles - don't let the distance fool you.  You will be ready for camp after this up-and-down hike.  You'll make a wet-crossing of Arroyo Seco, pass through Fish Camp at 4.0 miles, and wind along mountains scarred by the infamous 1977 Marble-Cone fire.  Take a break and have a snack at Fish Camp.  You will ascend over a thousand feet, drop down again, and then climb back up - your legs will feel this stretch.  You will camp in a stand of Coulter Pines, near the refreshing year-round Lost Valley Creek.  Be alert along the trail, about 3 to 3.5 miles out - there is a marvelous cascade and pool to your left and below the trail.  (See Photo Gallery) - take a quick, invigorating dip.  This trek will take you through oaks, maples and bays; through riparian environments and dry, exposed chaparral-covered hillsides; occasional firs and pines decorate the way, as well.  Watch for the poison oak, which thrives along streams, shaded areas, and trails.  Although you will encounter NO bears, the Ventana Wilderness is home to the world's highest density per square mile of mountain lions - it is unlikely that you will see these elusive animals, but the Lost Valley is the perfect place to "get lucky," if you are so inclined.  Early mornings and dawn are the best times to "scout."  Bobcat, coyote and, fox also thrive.  Rattlesnakes are abundant - I recommend a walking stick and reasonable alertness.  Give them a moment and they will move away from you. 

DAY 2 - I recommend moving slowly through the valley, stopping to explore a little and enjoy the beauty.  As soon as you cross Lost Valley Creek, bear left over the rise; don't bear right on a false trail which dead ends within a quarter mile.  There's a great little knoll about an hour out - stop and take a break.  Explore this unique area before moving on.  3.1 miles from Lost Valley Camp you'll cross a creek and pass through Pelon Camp, an unspectacular spot.  2.0 miles later you'll arrive in Indian Valley Camp, a fine spot to call it a day.  Indian Valley Camp is again amongst Coulter pines at the mouth of an open, grassy valley.  Again, take time to explore the area once you've reached camp.  Rising 1,400' above and to the west of camp is Marble Peak. 

DAY 3 - Now we take the Marble Peak Trail, aka Arroyo Seco Trail, east/north, ascending to Tan Oak Camp, about 2.5 miles; passing through Strawberry Camp a short way farther, then another downhill 3.6 miles and you will arrive at South Fork Camp, complete with a refreshing dip in a South Fork pool.  Make this your camp to end Day 3.  

DAY 4 - An easy 2 mile hike brings us to Rainbow Camp, then another half (.7) mile to Mocho Camp; get ready for a steep, 4.2 mile switchbacking, 1,400' climb to the top of Coast Ridge Road, past Cold Springs Camp, which is about .6 mile from the top.  This camp is not really desirable, unless you are too tired to go on, then it may be your only option.  There is ample water there (a water tank).

DAY 5 - This is a long but  easy finishing day out to Highway 1 and the Pacific Ocean.  The views are spectacular.  You hike down a wide fire road overlooking the coastal beauty.  It's 9.5 miles to the bottom, but it's a breeze, and should not take longer than 4 hours or so.  You exit at the supreme Ventana Inn, one of the area's finest resorts.  Don't miss the waterfall and redwood tree on your left near the bottom.  From the Ventana Inn, it's only a few miles into Big Sur. 

This trip can be done in four days without too much strain, but you'll have to skip one of the best camp sites, Lost Valley Camp.  You'd hike to Indian Valley Camp on Day 1, collapsing days 1 and 2 into a single long day, then proceed as outlined.  The Ventana Wilderness can be brutally hot and dry in the Summer; plan accordingly.

A Wilderness Permit is required.  Open fires may not be permitted during fire danger months.  Check with the Ranger Station.  Water availability decreases sharply after July, but these trails allow ample opportunities - seize each one to fill up.    

Call (831) 385-5434 for Monterey Ranger District, 406 So. Mildred, King City, CA 93930 and/or link to their Web Page listed below.

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