Beginners Tips - Backpacking & Wilderness Survival Tips

AWRDED FOR WEB SITE CONTENT - JUNE 2006

Although I cover most of the basics of wilderness survival, camping and backpacking you will need for a safe and rewarding outdoor experience, I offer far more extensive treatment of each subject in my The Complete Hiking, Backpacking & Wilderness Survival Manual, which may be purchased at the below.

Table of Contents

Tip#2 - EMERGENCY KIT
Tip#3 - LOST? GET FOUND
Tip#4 - ANIMAL CONFRONTATIONS
Tip#6 - WHEN NATURE CALLS
Tip#9 - POISON OAK
Tip#10 - STAYING ALIVE
Tip#16 - GEAR CHECKLIST
Tip#20 - NEW TO HIKING, CAMPING AND BACKPACKING - TIPS
Tip#21 - DOGS IN THE WOODS
Tip#24 - FIGHTING BACK AGAINST BUGS
Tip#26 - HikingwithMike's BEGINNER BACKPACKING TIPS
Tip#25 - BACKPACKER'S FIRST AID KIT

GO TO MIKE'S BACKPACKING & WILDERNESS SURVIVAL TREKS (COURSE) - ZION WILDERNESS SURVIVAL SCHOOL by HikingwithMike.com

RETURN TO "TIPS" HOMEPAGE

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tip#2

TIP#2 - EMERGENCY KIT OR PACK (keep with you at all times): Compass; Map; Water treatment tablets – iodine; First aid kit (see Tip#25, Backpacker's First Aid Kit); 50'rope; 2 emergency candles - great as fire start aid; Waterproof matches; flint (scrape knife blade against it to create sparks); Butane lighter as backup; Signal Mirror; Good pocket knife (Swiss Army style); Emergency solar blanket; Emergency tent (optional) (plastic fold-up); Emergency poncho; Emergency whistle; Sunscreen (optional); 1 pair wool socks; Small flashlight & spare batteries; 2 Granola Bars or Power Bars; Medication you may need, including Aspirin or non-aspirin pain killer; Extra bootlaces (may second as small ropes); sewing kit & safety pins; a yard of thin wire; one to three yards of Duct tape; small bag of salt; Cellular Phone - note that most of the time they will be useless in the mountains, unless you have the very expensive iridium type; check with local Ranger Station.

note #1: Bear Pepper Spray might be applicable - use only approved spray specifically formulated for bears - more powerful spray and more potent. It's more expensive than that made for people - using people spray may only enrage the bear without deterring an attack. note #2: In winter (snow/freeze conditions) - always have extra clothing, even on day hikes. note #3: In hot weather, where water may be scarce, include a large, transparent plastic sheet (4' in diameter), and a 3' long drinking tube in your Emergency Kit. These two items are all you need to build a simple water condensation still - See TIP#5.
Click on "banner" for great deals on gear.

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tip#3

TIP#3 - IF YOU GET LOST, unless you are expert, stay in one area, where others may expect you to be. Beforehand, make sure someone knows where you'll be and your timetable. Use emergency whistle, signal mirror, smoke from burning green or damp plants. Be extremely careful when building a signal fire - you certainly don't want to add a forest fire to your troubles. Lay out an "SOS" or "X" using branches, rocks or brightly-colored gear (tent fly, tarp, etc.). Stay calm. Take an inventory of your gear. How can it be put to good use? Seek shelter early - don't wait for dark or cold. Drink and eat at regular intervals. Don't panic. Panic is your worst enemy. Think. Rest. Drink. You CAN survive!

You can survive about a month without food - YES YOU CAN! You can survive from 3 to 5 days without water or fluid. Temperatures and activity level effect this time period. You can die within hours from lack of shelter. You can die even more quickly from panic-induced injury. STAY CALM! Sleeping overnight in the wild will likely be more of an inconvenience than a threat to your life. If you are properly equipped and prepared, the experience can end up being fun as well as a challenging event.

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tip#4

TIP#4 - ANIMAL CONFRONTATIONS: Bears cannot read; mountain lions cannot read; rattlesnakes cannot read – they won't necessarily obey these rules and tips. The following Tips should help you in most situations, but animals can be unpredictable, so you’ll need to react to each incident as it unfolds. Keep your wits, stay as calm as possible, and NEVER run. Bears can accelerate to over thirty miles per hour – you cannot.

COUNTERASSAULT BEAR DETERRENT: CLICK HERE FOR LINK!

A) BLACK BEARS: If you hike frequently in California or many other areas in the USA, you have a good chance of meeting one of America’s most misunderstood creatures: the Black Bear. Black Bears are quite different than Brown Bears/Grizzly Bears. Black Bears are far less aggressive. They are smaller, which makes them good tree climbers – climbing a tree to elude a Black Bear will gain you little. The Bear may lose interest in you, however, once it sees you as no threat.
As of this writing, the last five Black Bear related human deaths in the USA were from male predatory attacks. To my knowledge, no other deaths have occurred in the last thirty years. **NOTE: On 5/21/00, a woman was reportedly killed by a small, female black bear at the Great Smokey Mountains N.P. in Tennessee. Details are unclear, but it may have been an attack to protect her cub. This was the first fatality from a black bear attack at a Southeast national park or reserve. In August 2002 a small black bear took a five-month-old baby left unattended on a backyard patio in upstate New York; the child died of wounds, though the bear's intentions were unclear. How can this bear be blamed? The parents were criminally negligent, in my opinion, not the bear.
Females, though more frequently in clashes with people, usually act out bluff attacks, attacks intended to frighten and intimidate intruders, not to kill. Bluff attacks may involve forceful contact, but usually end there. These normally involve protection of cubs, food, or surprise encounters. When hiking, make noise regularly to alert bears – they will likely move away and you’ll never know they were in the area. I have met two mothers with cub in the Sequoia National Park – both times in deep wilderness – both times the bears went about their business, keeping a watchful eye, but otherwise ignoring my presence. If you come face-to-face with a Black Bear 1) stand your ground – do not run, which may provoke a “prey” response;2) move away obliquely and slowly, keeping your eyes on the bear at all times;3) be prepared to use your Bear Pepper Spray;4) shed food pack (or freshly caught fish) if approached aggressively, but keep your backpack on, as it may act as a shield if you are actually attacked;5) never insert yourself between a mother and her cubs;6) if attacked by an adult bear and pepper spray does not work (or you have none), go to the ground, cover the back of your head and neck with your hands – PLAY DEAD! Never fight back – you will lose. PLAY DEAD. Here, some controversy exists. Some experts say that you should fight back against Black Bears, but play dead against Brown Bears. They feel that a Black Bear attack, other than the bluff attack, is almost always predatory and meant to kill. My advice, then, is to play dead, but if that does not cause the Black Bear attack to cease after a short mauling, fight back vigorously. No advice can be seen as perfect or a certain remedy. Use your good sense. It may be your best weapon.
WARNING! Never spray your tent, clothing, gear or campsite with Bear Spray. Once the spray has settled and become inert, it can actually work as an attractant to bears. Use the spray only as directed by the manufacturer, and only in an actual confrontation.

B) GRIZZLY BEARS (BROWN BEARS): First of all, Brown Bears include Grizzlies and Kodiak Bears. Brown Bears/Grizzlies are found in the continental United States only is Washington, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. Glacier National Park in Montana, Yellowstone National Park and parts of Grand Teton National Parks in Wyoming are places the average American might be most likely to encounter a Brown Bear. Brown Bears cannot climb trees well – a tree may offer a safe haven, but it must be big enough to prevent the powerful bear from simply pushing it over. YES! Grizzlies can be aggressive and terribly dangerous, but they generally avoid Man when possible. My best advice: give them a wide berth. Make noise, stay alert, never run, carry Bear Pepper Spray, and play dead, covering back of head and neck if mauled. The bear will often chew and maul a bit, then cover its victim with dirt, leaves and brush for a later meal. Play dead until the bear departs. Do not fight back. You will only enrage the animal, and you have NO chance of fighting it off (unless you are armed). Never go to bed wearing clothing smelling even a little of cooked meat; never take or wear perfumes, toothpaste, sunscreen, hairspray, food, flavored drinks, etc. into your sleeping quarters. This applies to all bear habitats, not just those of Grizzlies. In July of 2000, a man was killed and partially eaten by a 300 pound, male brown bear in Alaska. The attack was a predatory attack by a male.

C) MOUNTAIN LIONS: If you hike in California or many other areas of the USA, you have a very low chance of ever seeing a Mountain Lion, let alone encountering one. They are elusive and private creatures. But with Man’s constant encroachment onto the lion’s territory – mountain biking, hiking, even jogging – people vs. animal confrontations are on the increase. Even so, there have been only thirteen deaths from Mountain Lion attacks in the last hundred years. Each one is tragic, but anti-lion activists rally the unknowing to their cause, which is to decimate the spectacular cat’s number. To avoid attack, always keep children and teenagers close by. Make noise. Don’t run or bike in areas known to be habituated by lions. Hike in groups. If a healthy Mountain Lion hears your approach, it will nearly always slip away into the brush. Unfortunately, lions usually attack from ambush, leaving the victim at a disadvantage. Unlike with bear attacks, always fight back when attacked by a Mountain Lion. The adult Mountain Lion weighs in at between 90 and 170 pounds – adult black bears weigh in at more than twice that amount. Kicking, gouging eyes, and hitting with fists will both surprise the lion and cause it to rethink its attack. As a hunter, it cannot afford injury. Injury means potential starvation. Fight like the Dickens! If given the opportunity, stand your ground, stand tall, and pick up small children. Never take your eyes off the cat. Throw rocks or wood, but take care when stooping to pick up objects. Hold up jackets, packs or shirts, or anything else which will make you look larger. Yell! Oh, and Bear Pepper Spray will probably do the trick, as well, as long as the cat can’t read.

D) RATTLESNAKES, Copperheads, Water Moccasins and Coral Snakes are the only venomous snakes in the U.S. Snakes are really far less a threat than most people think. Did you know that Rattlers can strike only about half to two-thirds the distance of their length? A five foot Rattler can strike only about two-and-a-half feet to a little under three-and-a-half feet – that’s not much of a reach. And they DO NOT chase people. Oh, and that loud, frightening rattling they produce – guess what it’s intended to do? Right! Frighten you – frighten you away. If they really wanted to strike at you they wouldn’t warn you first, now would they? So, once you know the snake is there, and it’s rattling furiously, simply back slowly away, making sure that you are not backing into another snake. Copperheads, Moccasins and Coral Snakes don't rattle, but they do seek to avoid you whenever possible. Retracing your steps is the best path to safety in most cases. Unfortunately, Rattlers and other venomous snakes do sometimes strike without ample warning. This normally occurs when they are startled and see no other way out. If bitten, send someone for help. Try to avoid moving, which hastens the venom’s spread. Keep bite point below heart level. Apply cool, damp cloth and wash wound with soap and water. Do not slash an “X” in the bite area – more damage is often done by the cutting than by the bite. DO NOT use a tourniquet – again, often more dangerous that the bite itself. I recommend that a Sawyer Extractor kit be carried at all times. The GOOD news: many venomous snake bites involve little venom. Adult Rattlers tend to limit venom to prey, and humans are not prey. Actually, baby Rattlers can be more dangerous, as they cannot control venom injection. Always move slowly and alertly through brush, tall grass, fallen timber, rocky areas, etc. Be especially careful when climbing over boulders where snakes may be sunning or shading themselves. Always carry a snake bite kit and know how to use it; do not cut into wound, no matter what your "obsolete" kit might indicate. Finally, a walking stick can be a great tool or probe in avoiding snakes.

Some statistics, as of 6/1/00:

Rattlers strike humans about 4500 times a year with only 12-15 deaths per year; Copperheads strike 2750 times with 0 deaths from single bites; Water Moccasins strike 700 times with 1 death per year on average; Coral Snakes strike about 1 time with a death every ten years or so. So, that's less than 16 deaths per year from venomous snake bites. About 50% of bites involve outright provocation, usually be young boys; 25% of bites involves intoxicated people; many bites occur in or about homes or farm fields. Few bites occur to hikers, campers or other outdoor sportsmen. The message, leave them alone and they shall leave you alone. Be cautious, but not paranoid. Avoid ALL snakes.

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tip#6

TIP#6 – WHEN NATURE CALLS AND YOU GOTTA GO, what do you do? When backpacking and even when just day hiking, the time will come when you’ve got no choice. What’s the etiquette? What do you do if you’re a woman or girl? How can you be certain that you’re alone? Trust me, it’s not all that bad – once you get used to it. 1. Always ensure that you are at least 200’ from any stream, lake, creek, etc. This applies to all body wastes. You don’t want to foul the water, and your waste WILL travel within the earth farther than you might think. Remember this rule when you’re getting your drinking water from a stream or lake.2. Start by digging a hole at least 6 to 8 inches deep and wide in a locale that you feel is both comfortable and private. You might wish to locate a good-size rock or log against which to support yourself. A hint from my friend Chris M – if you’re concerned with privacy, always look up – who might be sitting innocently on a high ledge or rock? Women might wish to go in pairs – one can act as a lookout.3. Carefully burn used toilet paper in the hole or in your campfire, or pack it out in a special zip style baggie. This would also apply to women’s feminine hygiene items. Cover the hole with the dirt you removed – there should be at least 6 inches of covering dirt. I like to add a large rock to deter forest creatures from being too curious or hikers from stepping there.4. Women!!! If you are quite concerned with privacy, buy a roomy, non-transparent poncho. You can wear this for added security. It makes a wonderful outhouse while doubling as rain protection. NO extra weight to carry. Obviously, you’ll want to be careful not to soil the poncho.5. Always carry a plastic trowel and toilet paper in your pack – even when day hiking.6. For groups, I like to dig an 8 inch deep, 8 inch wide trench long enough to accommodate the group size and planned time in camp. Choose a site which will be safe and easy to locate in the dark. Leave a trowel or shovel behind. Don’t leave a roll of paper behind unless it is well secured and waterproofed – soggy paper is no fun, and neither is toilet paper blowing through the forest. Each user simply covers their use; this saves everyone from locating and digging separate holes. This way all users know to allow privacy in that spot, as well. Before leaving camp, always return the group latrine area to “no-trace condition. Scatter rocks, level the ground, etc. 7. Finally, if the ground is frozen or too hard for digging, pack out both waste and paper. Please do not take the easy way out – think of others. In snow, be sure to dig through the snow and into the earth.
Be aware of local regulations regarding waste disposal. More and more areas, especially those enduring heavy human traffic, are now under "bag and remove" guidelines. These jurisdictions require that you carry out all human and pet waste. Burying or burying is not allowed. Please respect all local rules. You may not agree or understand the reasons for these rules, but there are always sound rationales behind them. Please cooperate.

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tip#9

TIP#9 – POISON OAK – Just scratching the surface! Poison Oak? It seems that some people have a high resistance, almost an immunity to Poison Oak – I was lucky to be one of those 1 in 4 people, that is until early 2000, when I succumbed to a miserable case, this after 30 years of hiking without ever breaking out. I’ve read, however, that that immunity can vanish overnight, so I still take care to avoid the nasty plant as much as possible. The plant thrives in damp areas, along streams especially, but also does well in partially sunned wooded areas. Riparian environments are one of its customary homes. As you climb above several thousand feet elevation you’ll typically encounter less and less of the plant. The plant has woody stems and branches; the lobed leaves are in clusters of three (trifoliate); leaves are bright, shiny green in Spring, turning to red in late Summer, before dropping off in the Fall. The plant varies in form – sometimes it’s a climbing vine plant and other times it’s a bush or shrub. All parts of the plant exude the poisonous oil. It is my understanding that your initial contact with the pesky plant causes no reaction, but subsequent contacts result in itching, lesions, blisters, etc. The key is to wash yourself often when exposed - in the field, plain soap and water will do, but bathe a couple of times. Tecnu (R) is a special cleanser, which is supposed to be great if used within a couple of hours of contact. Purchase special Poison Oak blocking lotion and use before and during activity. Remember that you can pick up the rash from contact with the leafy parts of the plant; from the stems and branches; from pets or gear exposed to the plant; from smoke resulting from burning the plant. The rash begins from 12 to 48 hours after contact. You’ll know when you’ve gotten it. Recognition and avoidance is the best plan. The plant is a problem year round; watch out for the leafless stalks and branches. If you bathe several times with ordinary soap or special “oak” soaps within two to six hours of contact, you should be OK. This may be a problem when hiking, but it’s the only way out. Alcohol wipes are also effective. Douse a washcloth with alcohol and wipe yourself thoroughly several times. Wash your hands well before relieving yourself. Keep your hands off of your face, as well. Don’t drag contaminated gear into your tent. Wash clothing well after suspected contact, and sponge off gear as well as possible. Finally, see your physician for both preventive and treatment advice. Good luck. Hike if you’ve got the itch!

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tip#10

TIP#10 – STAYING ALIVE! When experts and researchers interview survivors of air disasters, ship wrecks, hostage scenarios, war prisons, wilderness attacks and misfortunes, they hear the same story beneath the story every time – survivors keep their wits about them, they believe that they will survive and they decide on a plan of survival and see it through. Here are a few truisms and thoughts which may help you in a wilderness survival situation: 1. WATER vs. FOOD – a human can typically survive up to a month without food, but only several days or less without water. Food is more important in wintry cases as your body will require the calories to keep itself warm. When lost, one of your first concerns after safety, immediate shelter from heat or cold, and the treatment of any injuries should be water. You must find it. A bandana, sock or tee shirt can be used to remove dew from wet grasses and leaves. A water still may save your life (see discussion above under TIP #5). Trap rainwater in rain gear, tent fly, plastic bag, etc. Seek low areas and areas of lush greenery. Running out of food is more often of psychological distress than physical. Be careful what you snack on in the wild. Many plants are poisonous and many poisonous plants resemble safe ones. All grasses are edible, though usually offer little reward. You are better off eating insects, frogs, lizards, etc., than plants about which you know little.2. CARRY an emergency kit similar to that described in TIP #2, above. Carry it with you at all times, even when going to the toilet. You can never know when your camp may be invaded by a bear, covered by an avalanche or rockslide, or visited by thieves. At least once a year, replenish items with freshness dates (aspirin, medications, emergency food, etc.). Everyone in your group over the age of ten or even less depending on maturity level, should have their own map and compass, emergency whistle, water purification tablets, pocket knife, poncho and warm clothes, matches and butane lighter, emergency candles, flashlight and extra batteries, and personal water supply – at a minimum. Why should only adults have the means to survive? 3. DURING thunder storms, avoid the largest tree or boulder. Both may act as lightning conductors. Get away from metal you may be carrying. Sit on your sleeping mat. Stay dry – wetness hurries hypothermia.4. IF you become lost – sit down for a while. Gather yourself. Think about your predicament. Sleeping a night or two in the wild isn’t all that bad. Help will be dispatched – that’s virtually certain. Do not wait until dark or encroaching freezing night to seek shelter. Accept early that you are lost – give yourself at least two hours of daylight when possible to build or find shelter, firewood, water, etc. Tree branches make great lean-to shelters or teepees. Caves, fallen trees, rocky overhangs, low-to-the-ground fir trees – all can make ideal accommodations, but avoid rocky overhangs during lightning storms. Don’t forget your emergency tent (in your kit). A small fire provides heat and companionship during the dark of night. Drink often. Munch a little food. Go through your gear and inventory its contents – every item is a friend. Comfort is nice, but relatively unnecessary to survival. Protection from the elements, ample water supply and avoiding injury are key to survival. At daybreak, think about signaling for help. Create smoke using damp or green foliage. Try your whistle every so often. Lay out colorful gear in a clearing – use brightly colored clothing, tarp, tent or tent fly, foliage on snow, etc. Have mirror handy for signaling aircraft or far away searchers. Stay put! Do not wander about. Movement diminishes chances for being found; increases the chance of injury; burns vital energy and increases need for water. Use your time gathering firewood, nursing your fire, replenishing water supply, etc. Praise yourself for the job you’ve done so far. Feeling good and remaining positive about your situation is important. In nearly every situation, discovery is but hours to a few days away. I’m not saying it can’t get worse, of course it can, but it usually doesn’t. Staying calm and using your head are the key points to getting out safe.

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tip#16

TIP#16 – GEAR CHECKLIST – What to take? It varies from "backcountry" camper to camper, but this is a list of what you should consider. If you are a car camper, this list is NOT for you, although it will contain some good info.

First Aid Kit – see TIP#25

Emergency Kit – see TIP#2

Camp shoes or sandals – optional, but recommended – sandals double for water crossings

Two extra pair of wool socks / two pair liner socks

Pocket knife

Wide brimmed hat

Trowel and Toilet paper (remove from cardboard roll to save space)

Mess kit & cup (avoid metal cup in winter) (I prefer thick plastic fork, knife & spoon)

Cookware – pot, skillet, coffee pot – take only what you will use

Tin foil (great for cooking and protecting rocks from blacking in new camp site – see No Trace Camping) – remove from cardboard roll.

Stove and fuel

Waterproof matches

Fire starter sticks or gel packets - optional

Water filter / purifier

Tent and small repair kit

Sleeping bag & mat (stuff pillow, optional)

Plastic ground cloth cut to fit just inside your tent’s perimeter – tarp - tnet brand footprint

Day pack

Camera & film

Binoculars – optional

GSP device – I now carry one in deep canyon and desert environs

Flashlight & extra batteries

Cellular Phone - optional, and if a signal will be available

Large plastic trash bags

Pack cover for rain (large trash bag works, too)

Rain gear or poncho

50’ good rope

Bear resistant container or a couple stuff sacks for hanging food and smelly stuff away from critters - some areas require bear canisters

Zip shut bags are a must – take some

Map, trail guide and Permits in waterproof bag.

Paperback? Deck of cards? Optional

Pen and Paper

Hiking sticks – they work great and decrease tiredness

Good water bottles or bladder

Bear Spray?

Spare glasses - Contact lens wearers – take juice and stuff

Small towel, toothbrush & paste, hair brush, razor, liquid camp soap ( all purpose)

Collapsible plastic bucket – for washing dishes and clothes away from water source.

Collapsible large water bag/container – for group treks

Gaiters – snow or mud type - optional - also good in brushy areas to avoid stickers, foxtails, etc.

TIP - Pack your pack carefully – heavier goods in center and close to back. Don’t be top heavy. Use waterproof bags to protect key items and clothing.

Food – I’ll leave that to you, but avoid weighty food – go with dehydrated foods

Breakfast – flavored instant oatmeal, Tang, raisins, granola bars, coffee or cocoa.

Trail/Lunch – trail mix, nuts, Gorp (M&Ms, nuts, banana chips, yogurt balls, raisins, coconut slivers, etc.), jerky, cheese/peanut butter crackers, power bars, chewing gum, etc.

Supper – dehydrated meals, Knorr type soups or ramen, coffee, wine, rice & beans, dehydrated desserts, etc. I cook low maintenance – go for it if you can handle the extra weight. Fish? Catch your own – delicious way to go.

Don’t forget salt, pepper, sugar, dry creamers, etc., if you require them

Warm weather (no chance of freezing temperatures)

Salt Tablets or Electrolyte replacement drink powder

Sunscreen

Sunglasses

Additional water if water will not be available – consider a camelback type water bag/bladder.

Cold weather (chance of or certain freezing temperatures)

Gaiters

Ski hat/stocking cap

Warm gloves – (water repellant)

Wool gloves

Synthetic, moisture wicking liner gloves

Snowshoes – optional

Crampons – optional

Balaklava (head stocking) – optional

Sunglasses

Sunscreen

More food – required for higher calorie count per day to stave off cold

Light weight snow shovel - optional

Cold weather clothing – synthetic thermals, fleece pants & shirts; quality parka

Avoid cotton – go synthetics - polypropylene is great.

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tip#20
TIP#20 – NEW TO HIKING, CAMPING OR BACKPACKING – IMPORTANT TIPS:

NOTE: Many of the tips below are covered in detail elsewhere on this page- see the TOC.

First, start sensibly – don’t bite off more than you can chew – don’t ruin it for yourself. Hike before backpacking. Do a two-nighter before taking off for a week in the woods.

Break in your boots – walk at least 10 to 20 miles in them before setting off into the backcountry. Purchase your boots with care – be sure they fit comfortably. Some newer style boots require less or little break in. See tips on purchasing boots under Gear Tips.

When on the trail, treat hot spots at once – avoid blisters, which can ruin your trek. Carry adhesive tape.

Seal your tent’s seams, especially the tent fly seams (yes, some tents are factory sealed).

New tent – set it up at home first – a rainy night is no time to be figuring out how it goes.

Ground cloth should be a tiny bit smaller than the floor of your tent or it will actually draw water under the tent.

Always keep tent zipped closed to keep out insects, snakes, scorpions, etc.

Plan meals sensibly – don’t carry too much food, but don’t carry too little. Pre-package items (zip lock bags) for trail snacks/lunch.

Take a bear-resistant canister or properly hang food and scented items – see Counterbalance tip.

Sore back sleeping on ground? Before erecting tent, excavate a shallow area for your butt and/or hip to lie in. Refill spot before leaving.

Do not take or wear deodorants, hair sprays, perfumes, etc. in bear country. Don’t leave them in your vehicle – bears will pry open your doors to get at the goodies. Leave them at home or hang them away from vehicle, or put in bear-proof boxes at improved campgrounds.

Never take food or sweet scented items into your tent, especially in bear country (this includes toothpaste, lip balms, sunscreen, garbage, sweetened drinks, etc.) Hang them with the food or put them in canister. Also, do not wear clothing to bed if you’ve cooked fresh fish in them. The aroma permeates the material and bears will love it.

NEVER run when confronted by a snake, bear or mountain lion. NEVER. See TIP#4. above.

Trouble lighting a fire? Don’t waste valuable matches. Light a candle or fire starter stick first. Have plenty of kindling at the ready before lighting your fire.

ALWAYS let someone know where you are going and your timetable.

Lost, really lost – stay put; hunker down safely; find shelter; stay calm. Help will come.

Your greatest threat is from humans, not animals. Use your head and instincts when encountering people. Don’t be paranoid, but don’t be naïve, either. A good tact is to mention the rest of your party, you know, that "slower make-believe" bunch you’re expecting soon. This may be especially important for women hikers. Be especially alert to others at trailheads and parking areas - again, probably more important for women.

Practice camp etiquette. Camp away from others, seeking boulders or trees for a barrier of sorts. This allows everyone some privacy. Don’t crowd a campsite. Lower noise after 9 PM. Many hikers are on the trail by 6 AM. Don’t tromp through occupied campsites. Report any suspicious persons or activities to authorities as soon as practical.

Keep fires small and burn only dead wood found on the ground. Never break off wood from trees, whether dead or not. Completely douse fire before departing.

All water found in the wilderness should be boiled 3-10 minutes, depending on elevation, chemically treated or filtered before drinking or cooking with, that is unless you’re fond of diarrhea or cramps. As you gain elevation, it will take longer to purify, so increase boiling time from 3 to 7 or even 10 minutes.

Dress in layers. Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. Avoid cotton socks and apparel – it takes forever to dry. Fleece is great. Carry enough clothing for unexpected, sudden turns of weather, even for day hikes.

Leave packs open and pockets open once in camp so that animals can investigate without chewing holes through your pack. Always check gear (including boots) for snakes, spiders or scorpions before using.

Cooking over a campfire? Rub liquid soap over cook pot to repel soot and blackening.

Cellular phones are great, but they more than likely won’t work in the backcountry.

Before leaving the trailhead, drink a healthy dose of liquid – leave the trailhead fully hydrated. No, you won’t get cramps.

Be sure that the weight of your backpack is on your hips, not your shoulders. Adjust straps accordingly. Carry heavy items towards the upper-center of pack, close to your back. Don’t be top heavy – avoid sway.

Carry stove fuel in a plastic bag; avoid placing fuel where it could leak and contaminate clothing, sleeping bag, etc.

Gathering firewood – be alert to poison oak/ivy, snakes, spiders, etc.

Take along any medications you may need (asthma, insulin, etc.)

Children should be kept close at all times – there are many hazards in the wild: animals, water, precipitous drops, etc. Make sure they know the rules. They should carry their own emergency items.

Lightning? Sit on your sleeping pad, away from overhanging rocks or large trees, and stay off of crests. Avoid your camera, tent poles in your pack, pack frame, etc. Stay low to the ground. Spread out at least 30 feet apart.

Perhaps dogs don’t belong in the wilderness – they often upset the wildlife, and there are dangers for them, as well. I love dogs, and understand that you may wish to take your dog along, but I suggest that, as with kids, you keep them close and under control at all times. Check for ticks on the trail and after returning home. Check foot pads for cuts – sharp stones can do severe damage. See TIP#21, above.

Leave all electronics at home (radios, Walkmans, games, etc.), except for phones and GPS devices. Don’t take civilization with you when the reason for getting out was to get away from it all.

Once home, dry and air out gear – prevent mildew and reduced gear life. Put sleeping bag in a large (non-compressed) bag; remove tent poles and store extended – this relaxes the shock cords and prolongs their life. Service water filter per instructions.

Fluid measurements: 1 gallon = 8.33 pounds = 4 quarts = 8 pints = 128 fluid ounces. Comparison wise, 1 gallon = typical plastic milk container; paper milk container is typically 2 quarts or ½ gallon.; pop-up-top water bottles are typically 16 to 20 ounces, about 1 pint. Remember, you should drink at least 2 quarts.

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tip#21

TIP#21 - DOGS IN THE WOODS is a subject which engenders fierce disagreement among many hikers and animal owners. It seems to me that a little consideration and sense of responsibility on the part of dog owners, and an equal amount of understanding on the part of hikers might ease the strain between the two groups. However, I also feel that there are many wilderness areas and State and National parks that can do better without a canine invasion. It is indisputable that wildlife does not respond well to dogs on the trails. Canines are, by their very nature and instincts, predators, and this fact is not lost on squirrels, rabbits, birds, etc. Add to this that far too many dog owners fail miserably, with oceans of excuses, to pick up their dog’s business, to keep their dog on a leash both in and outside campgrounds, to restrain their dog from barking at the many noises of the night, etc., and it’s no wonder that a battleground exists. Finally, and I have encountered just such dogs in one particularly harrowing occasion, some dogs behave aggressively towards hikers encountered on the trail. Unfortunately, their aggressiveness may be the reason some fearful hikers bring them along in the first place - misguided protection.

[My Bouvier des Flanders, Katie atop Santa Ynez Mountains - Santa Barbara region]

OK, now let’s discuss how to make dogs less intrusive in the wilderness, and how to equip them for a hike:

Keep your dog on a leash at all times, even when it is not necessarily required of you. This may also be for your dog’s own safety – snakes, mountain lions and bears might find your dog quite edible or react defensively in a chance encounter. Be aware that many people fear dogs - act responsibly when approaching hikers. Do not allow your dog to approach any stranger without proper introductions. Have your dog sit until hikers have passed or been introduced.

Ensure that your dog has received all its immunizations.

Enroll your dog in an Obedience School to learn socialization and obedience.

DO NOT allow your dog to pee or poop within 200 feet of any water source. I know this is difficult to enforce, but do your honest best. Pack out or bury your dog’s solid waste, just as you should your own.

Be prepared to remove ticks and thorns; check Fido’s pads frequently, especially after traveling over rocky areas. Some people apply a pad toughener or wax to their dogs pads. Some people carry "booties" for rough terrain.

Keep dogs out of poison oak – they can easily transfer the oils to you.

Let your dog carry its own pack – there are excellent doggie packs available. It should weigh no more than 20-25% of their own weight when full. Let them carry their own food, first aid packet, brush, water, etc. Your dog may require 50% more food than at home due to the calories he will be burning. Keep weight evenly divided on each flank throughout your hike, not just at the onset.

Watch your dog for exhaustion, heavier than usual panting, limping, etc. By all means, exercise your dog sufficiently for several months before taking it onto a trail for a long hike. Do not drag a "couch potato" dog into the wilderness and expect it to be able to handle the work.

Be especially vigilant for horses – meetings of dogs and horses often spell disaster.

Curb your irritation with park or wilderness officials – many strict rules governing dogs have arisen due to a rising number of complaints by other hikers, and even documented attacks by dogs on hikers. Liability issues exist and the officials are simply reacting to society’s expectations. Prohibitions against dogs are often tied to fear that domestic canines will transfer diseases to indigenous coyote, fox and wolf populations.

PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR RATTLESNAKE ENCOUNTERS:

Katie took her initial Rattlesnake Avoidance Training on 3/8/03. The course, taught by renowned Patrick Callaghan of Norco, California, is designed to introduce a dog to live rattlers. The course uses aversion techniques the dog will long remember to cause a dog to back away from any future encounter. The course is a three step process:

Teaching phase - sight, sound and scent recognition.
Training phase - reinforcement of sight and scent recognition.
Test phase - avoiding and alerting.

The first two steps utilize mild vibration and electric stimulation so that the dog will associate the unpleasant, but harmless stimulation with each snake encounter. By the third step, the dog should give the snake a wide berth, and even give you a sign of danger, which the owner needs to recognize. Go to www.patrickcallaghan.com for more on the course. For any of you who have difficulty accepting the use of electric stimulation in this training, I urge you to consider the alternative - potentially a slow, painful death for you beloved pet and companion. I personally underwent the electric stimulation, and I can attest that the experience was memorable, but certainly not painful.

Patrick Callaghan training a dog - note rattler on ground in front of dog. Mouth is taped to prevent strike.

Rattler on ground, awaiting the next dog's approach.

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tip#24

Tip#24 - Fighting Back against Bugs. Let me begin by stating emphatically that it often seems that everyone has an answer to the problem of pesky insects, yet not everyone can be correct. I am going to offer a number of solutions, repellants and remedies, and I welcome other ideas, as well, but you, the "bitten," will have to decide what works best for you. These ideas and products come to me from other backpackers, survival experts, product brochures and articles by entomologists (bug experts). I am not promoting, endorsing or recommending any of the following. I am merely sharing with you what I’ve learned and heard over the years.

The Problem: Insects bite, sting, harass and infect. The culprits include ticks, mosquitoes, chiggers, biting flies, gnats, fleas, ants, spiders, etc. Diseases transmitted include Lyme Disease, Encephalitis, Yellow Fever, Malaria, Rocky Mountain Fever, Dengue Fever. Venomous spiders are not addressed here, but obviously, immediate, professional help is required. Treat as a snake bite – See Tip #4.

Solutions:

Avoid peak insect seasons or times. They vary from location to location, so check with local Park Authorities, Forest Rangers, etc., for information. North of Colorado and California (if you were to draw a line), insects are at their worst from May 15 to 12/1 (or 11/1 in the far North). From California to Arizona, Northern Texas, to Georgia, it’s April 1 to January 1. Southern Texas and all of Florida are year-round sites. These dates are generally correct. Dawn and Dusk are the peak/worst times for insect activity.
Avoid high-density or intensity areas. Standing water attracts mosquitoes; they lay their eggs in damp, dark areas and love stagnant waters. Mosquitoes are poor fliers, and a good breeze drives them nuts, and away. Camp, rest, and generally seek hillsides or other areas that receive a nice breeze. Hot, sunny areas are no friend to mosquitoes, so seek open, sunny campsites.
Check prospective campsites for anthills, animal droppings, heavy brush, woodpiles, standing-water puddles, etc. Don’t camp where these conditions exist. I'm not certain that I support or agree with this suggestion, but I've heard that sprinkling borax on the ground will drive off ants.
Try a perimeter spray repellant, if you’re car-camping.
Keep tents securely closed at all times. OK, open them to get in or out, but then zip them at once. Try spraying tent with a permethrin product such as Repel’s Permanone.
Consider large insect barriers or netting. These can enclose eating or relaxing areas, as well as sleeping areas.
Wear light color clothing. Mosquitoes like dark clothing. Also, you can spot ticks more easily on light color clothing. Wear loose fitting clothing. Loose clothing does not allow the insect’s stinger or biting apparatus to reach your skin. Keep shirts tucked in; keep pant legs tucked into socks or boots. A head net works great during problem times. Treat clothing with a tick and mosquito repellant before leaving on your adventure. A permethrin-based product such as Repel’s Permanone, works well on clothing. This product is applied at least two hours before use, as it must thoroughly dry. The protection lasts about two weeks. DO NOT use this product on your skin.
Whether you try DEET based repellants, Off, Ultrathon, Cutter, or my favorite, Ben’s; or DEET-free Shoo, Bugg-Off, Muskol, Chigg-Away, Bug Button or Bug-Ban wristband, herbal soaps or lotions, you’ll have to determine which one works best for you. The American Association of Poison Control Centers, in a five year study, found inconsequential reactions to DEET, even in its highest concentrations, yet many people have an intellectual aversion to its "chemical" base. Some people may have a slight skin reaction, but these cases are reported to be extremely rare. There are many home remedies, old wives (old hikers) tales, mechanical devices, and passed-along suggestions. They include ingesting garlic, bananas, Vitamin B-1, Vitamin E, sound emitters, including those that emit the dragonfly’s noise, Bounce Fabric Softener sheets, wristband repellants, Chamomile tea or soap, Citriodora and Chamomile concoctions (take one ounce of leaves from both Chamomile and Citriodora plants and boil in a gallon of water. Strain out plant particles and refrigerate. Apply the mixture to your face and exposed parts of your body), Avon’s Skin So Soft lotion, Amway’s D-15 lotions or sprays, tar and petroleum jelly mixtures (Warm a bit of tar until it gets slightly runny. Mix it with an equal amount of petroleum jelly and paraffin. Let the blend cool until it’s firm and smooth. Rub onto skin. ); electronic bug zappers, Dr. Broneer’s Peppermint soap, or mixing DEET with hand-sanitizing lotion to reduce irritation. Some of these ideas or products reportedly work well for some people, some are a joke or rip-off, and some work fine for some people yet not for others. Many insect control specialists and Entomologists scoff at sonic repellants, Skin So Soft Lotion and similar cosmetic products, Insect Zappers, Wristband Repellants and most home remedies.
Here’s a "right-on" suggestion: bathe often and wash away sweat. Pests are usually drawn to your scent. A clean body does not attract them as much as a sweaty, smelly one.
Campfire smoke drives off mosquitoes. Toss a few green leaves or branches onto your fire from time to time. Remember, though. DO NOT break live or dead branches from trees or shrubs.
Avoid hairsprays, deodorants, perfumes, scented sunscreens, etc. These sweet-smelling products attract insects. They attract Bears, too.
Children will put fingers in eyes and mouths. Do not, therefore, apply DEET to their hands.
Follow directions on product container for whatever you are using. Never apply chemicals to unexposed areas of your body. Do not apply over cuts, wounds or rashes. Avoid eyes and mouth. Be extra careful with children – check directions and apply carefully and always under adult supervision. Keep out of reach of children. Always bathe thoroughly as soon as possible after usage period.

After Bite Remedies and Medications:

Therapik Heat Relief ®
Afterbite ®
Calamine lotions
Anivy ®
Bug-B-Gone ®
Aloe Vera Gels
Baking soda
Benadryl ®
StingEze
Tick Removal instructions: First, DO NOT use heat or suffocation methods, so widely recommended, as these two methods may actually irritate the tick to the point that it releases its infecting bacteria. These improper methods include application of petroleum jelly, nail polish, gasoline; burning with a match or heated needle. Instead, use tweezers; grasp tick at the skin (victim’s skin, that is); pull straight out gently. Do not twist or bend insect. Once the tick is out, swab area with alcohol, an antibiotic ointment or soap and water. Place tick in a plastic bag and take to a physician if you fear Lyme Disease transmission.
See your physician if any bite or sting results in a rash, welt, redness or other irritation that does not go away after a few days.

Links to Manufacturers:

Muskol Insect Repellent
Information on Muskol products.
http://www.muskol.com

Shoo! Insect Repellent
DEET free Insect Repellent made in Scotland.
http://www.shoo.org

Bugg-Off All Natural Insect Repellent
Deet and alcohol free. Safe for children and pets.
http://www.bugg-off.com/index2.htm

Buggspray Insect Repellents
Personal insect repellents.
http://www.buggspray.com

Bushman
Insect repellent.
http://www.bushman-repellent.com/

Chigg Away
Non-toxic anti-itch ointment and chigger insect repellent.
http://www.chiggaway.com

Off!
Information on Off products from SC Johnson.
http://www.scjbrands.com/docs/off/off.asp

Ultrathon
Insect repellent.
http://www.ultrathon.com

Bug Button
All natural ingredients (no Deet).
http://www.neatthings.net/wim

Bug Shirts
Mesh bug shirts and pants. Lightweight.
http://www.duenorth.net/bug-shirts

Eco-Tech International
Bug-Ban, a non-toxic insect bite repellent wristband.
http://www.bug-ban.com

Odom's Natural ingredients
http://www.balsara.com

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tip#26

Tip#26 - HikingwithMike’s Tips for Beginner Backpackers.

NOTE: Many of these tips are covered in more depth under other specific tips. Please refer to Table of Contents.

Go over your Checklist.
Deal with newspapers and mail delivery.
Take a good paperback book along. Optional.
Take along your copy of The Complete Hiking, Backpacking & Wilderness Survival Manual, by Mike R Myers of www.HikingwithMike.com.
Backpacking? Flavored oatmeal for breakfast provides an easy, fast and great start. Add some raisins & sip hot chocolate. Hot water is all you need to get it all going. Granola bars also work well, and no cooking is required. GORP - trail mix made of M&Ms, salted nuts, salted pretzels, raisins, dried fruit, yogurt raisins, et al. This is great for snacks and lunch on the trail.

Carry a few zip-shut bags and a trash bag.

Make sure someone knows where you are going, has a map of your intended route, and knows when you are due out.

Check weather forecast via the Internet, radio or television.

Visit the local Ranger Station or Visitor Center before hitting the trail. There you can learn about any special hazards, special recommendations, trail conditions, points of interest, etc., as well as pick up maps, trail guides and pamphlets.

Always carry an Emergency Survival Kit (Tip#2); each hiker should have one, including kids. Every hiker should be prepared to spend a night outdoors, if necessary.

Carry necessary medications (asthma inhalers, insulin for diabetics, etc.). Don’t forget the aspirin. See Tip#25 for First Aid Kits.

Waterproof your boots and other gear. Seal tent seams.

Gas up before heading into mountains or wilderness.

Check tires - rough roads ahead.

Take plenty of water; it may not be available at your destination.

Drive carefully on mountain roads - Bambi and Smoky thank you!

Stay on back country roads. Please do not drive off road, except where allowed. When parking alongside road, do so safely; do not block road.

Leave Walkman type devices in your vehicle - enjoy nature.

Carry a Cellular phone if it can be used.

Wear loose, light color clothing with long sleeves and pant legs to protect against insects. Mosquitoes will bite right through close-fitting Tee Shirts. Tuck pant legs into socks or use bands to close them against insects. Spray a little repellant on shoes and pant legs to deter ticks, etc. I recommend DEET type repellants, although some people don’t like them due to chemical makeup. Keep repellent out of eyes and mouth.

A good walking stick will reduce fatigue. Two trekking poles will do even more good. Try not to dig into the ground along the trails, as this will hasten erosion and trail deterioration. Cover metal tips with rubber caps when possible.

Remember Sunscreen , Lip Balm, and Insect Repellant. Put in smaller containers to save on weight.

Remember wide brimmed hat and sun glasses.

Leave no food or sweet smelling goods in your vehicle when in Bear country.

Be alert to others at trailheads and parking areas. This is especially important for women. Crimes against women and hikers occur most frequently near trailheads and parking areas.

Be certain you take correct trail at trailhead.

Involve all members of your party in reviewing route and map. Make sure everyone understands where you are and where you’re headed. Point out major physical/terrain features from time-to-time.

Blazes (bark cuttings) on trees mark the trail. Ducks (rocks stacked one atop the other) also mark the way, but should be followed with some care, as they may not always be accurate. If trail appears to disappear, backtrack to last "known" location, and then start over again, taking care to look for where you went wrong. Don’t panic. If you become lost, stay put! Do not wander aimlessly in search of your way. See my advice on Getting Found.

Stay on the trail. Don’t cut switchbacks.

Keep children close by at all times. Mountain Lions and Bears cannot resist the temptation of scampering little ones. Snakes may also be a peril.

Carry Bear Spray where appropriate. Insist on more potent Bear Spray, and don’t buy pepper spray intended for human attackers. Read instructions, and know how to use the spray.

Leave firearms at home.

Shorten stride when going up hill. Lean into the slope.

Cinch backpack hip belt tight. Carry load on hips, not on shoulders.

Backpacks make one top heavy. Take care near edges and when crossing streams (See Tip#13, under Backpacker's Tips). Adjust straps to keep pack close to back.

Treat "hot spots" on feet before they become blisters. Tape does magic.

Wash dishes, clothes or yourself well away from any stream or lake. All toilet business should also be handled well away from any water source.

Treat or filter all water before drinking, no matter how pure it appears. Boil 3-10 minutes for best results.

Don’t litter - EVER. If possible, pack out litter you come across.

Never feed wildlife - EVER.

Keep dogs on leash or under strict voice control. People you encounter don’t know your dog - be considerate.

Pace yourself according to slowest member; it’s not a race. Allow children the opportunity to poke around, explore, be silly, etc.

Sing as you hike. Have fun and let bears or lions know you’re coming. Where else (besides your shower) can you sing aloud without getting odd stares?

Take breaks often (at least once an hour) - drink and snack.

It’s difficult to walk and look around when on uneven ground or narrow trails. Stop and enjoy the view.

If you encounter headache and nausea as you gain elevation, you may be dealing with altitude sickness in its early and non-life threatening stage. If you encounter severe shortness of breath, dizziness, clumsiness, or faltering judgment, turn back at once and seek lower elevation. This is especially critical if you have any heart problems or are over 55 years of age.

Keep camera handy in a pocket, outside pouch, etc.

Choose a hillside or elevated campsite (they get nice breezes, which chase away mosquitoes). Camp in sunny area (put tents in shade) away from lakes or streams, where mosquito concentrations are the highest.

Camp at least 50 feet from any trail and 100 feet from any lake or stream.

Practice "low impact, no trace" camping. Leave your campsite looking less used then when you arrived.

Before setting up camp, check for rodent or deer droppings, wood piles, rodent or snake holes and ant hills. DO NOT camp near these hazards. Rodent droppings may carry the deadly hantavirus, which is transmitted by air/when breathed.

Set up tents under protection of trees. This reduces sun damage to tent fabric. However, be sure no dead or ominous branches are overhead.

Place ground cloth (tarp) under tent to protect floor. Ground cloth MUST NOT extend beyond tent’s edges. If it does, rain will fall onto the ground cloth, then flow under your tent. Not Good!

Keep tents zipped shut at all times. Keep out snakes, scorpions, insects, etc.

Use only wood on the ground. Never pull wood from live or dead trees.

Keep campfire reasonably small to save wood supply and decrease fire danger.

Trouble starting a fire? Light a small candle first, and use it to start your fire. Have plenty of kindling ready before lighting fire.

Women! Shy about outdoor toilet situation? Carry a non-transparent poncho and use it as a temporary bathroom privacy "tent."

Involve your children in camp chores. Caution them about snakes, poison oak or ivy, and spiders when gathering firewood.

Bear proof your camp. Use Bear proof Canister or Counterbalance/Hang food and sweet goods (toothpaste, sunscreen, garbage, etc.). Don’t forget to thoroughly rinse water bottles used for sweet drinks, or store with other food. If possible, cook and eat at least 100' from your sleeping area.

Quiet hour in camp begins at 9:00 PM. Respect your neighbors.

Stuff boot laces inside boots - rodents love to gnaw on laces for the salts and other nutrients.

Leave unattended packs unzipped, pockets open, especially at night. This way animals, especially rodents, can investigate without eating through the pack material. I like to hang my pack (loosely) about four feet off the ground; this keeps out small animals, but allows bears to inspect open pockets without damaging the pack. Check boots for spiders, scorpions, snakes, etc., before donning them.

Never cook, smoke, or light candles inside your tent; under your vestibule should be done with extreme caution. I prefer cooking under a tarp when it's raining, away from tents.

Never allow food or sweets in your tent, unless you also allow bears there.

Always douse campfire thoroughly before leaving. You can be fined or even held liable for damages caused by a forest fire.

Back pains from sleeping on ground? Before erecting tent, scoop out a shallow hole where your rump or hip will lie. This will reduce strain on lower back. Refill dip before departing.

Allow tent to dry thoroughly before packing away. Mildew damage can be terminal. If you must pack out a wet tent or any other gear, absolutely air and thoroughly dry once home and before storing. Store tent poles extended to relax stress on shock cords. Store sleeping bags in larger (non-compressed) bag or king size pillow case.

Check camp site closely before departing. Thank you to the campers who didn’t - that’s thanks for the Swiss Army knife, $80 sunglasses, and fine walking stick I’ve picked up in years past.

Before heading home, stop in and say something nice to the Rangers, Forest Service Employees or Park Employees, who help to make your adventures possible, safe and enjoyable.

To fit backpack properly, 1) first loosen all straps; 2) tighten lower shoulder straps; 3) adjust back strap to raise pack; 4) tighten hip belt; 5) tighten upper shoulder straps to again raise pack's center of gravity; 6) now, readjust lower shoulder straps. Put heavy items against back and shoulders.

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tip#25

Tip#25 - BACKPACKER'S FIRST AID KIT

There are a number of excellent backpacking/hiking First Aid Kits available from commercial providers. I prefer to put together my own kit. A basic backpacking First Aid Kit should contain, at a minimum:

A few antibiotic ointment packs

Extra-strength non-aspirin tablets for adults & for some for kids

6-12 Antiseptic cleansing pads

6-12 Alcohol pads

A burn treatment gel pad

A cold compress

Gauze roll bandage

Large butterfly wound bandage

A few of various size adhesive plastic bandages

A sterile eye pad

Several gauze pads or varied sizes

Roll of adhesive tape

First Aid Guide

Vinyl gloves

Some medium safety pins

Scissors

Tweezers

Several cotton tip sticks/applicators

CPR Rescue Breathing Face Mask

Splints may be fashioned from natural and man-made materials (branches, towels, tent poles, tarps, etc.). At least one of your group should be CPR and First Aid certified, in my opinion.

Additionally, be certain to carry any special medications required by the group (for asthma, diabetes, etc.). A snake bite kit that includes a cutting device is NOT recommended, as more damage is often done cutting wound & applying tourniquets, than by bites themselves. Use of a Sawyer Extractor, only, which will remove up to 1/2 the venom. Then simply keep victim calm and motionless, lower bite below heart, send or call for help, and remain with bite victim.

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