Climbing Chest Harnesses

A chest harness can be readily improvised with a long loop of webbing a long runner . One popular design depends on a carabiner to bring the ends of the harness together at your chest. Another uses a knot instead to attach the ends. The carabiner chest harness Start with a double-length runner. Give the runner a half twist to create two temporary loops, and push one arm all the way through each loop.

FAQ: Climbing Physics - Climbing Forces - Some Hypothetical Instances

To best understand how these forces are derived, you should be familiar with kilonewtons, the pulley effect, and fall factors. I also urge you to read the Climbing Forces - An Overview page as it explains the many variables involved and how the impact force calculator can be used. Using the online impact force calculator, we can look at some hypothetical climbing situations.

Mastering Bivouacs: Climber Gear & Stay Tips

A bivouac is a lightweight, no-frills overnight staysometimes planned, sometimes not. Climbers plan spartan bivouacs so they can travel fast and light and start high on the mountain. An unplanned bivouac comes as a not-so-pleasant surprise due to injury, bad weather, or getting off route. Climbers at a planned bivouac camp make sure they have the essentials for a tolerable if not comfortable night, such as a bivy sack or cagoule, perhaps a tarp, some special food, and plenty of clothing.

Best Climbing Half Ropes & Chock Picks: Must-Have Gear

Chock picks, left to right shelf bracket, pit on type, Lee per, skewer type or tent stake. Friend of a Friend. to remove a chock. Give up if it refuses to budge. Wasting time trying to remove a badly stuck chock only tires you out and delays the climb. In addition to chocks, carabiners, runners, anda chock pick, a rock climber often carries a belay device, a chalk bag, and tie-off loops for such uses as emergency prusiking and for tying off a climber after a fall.

Ice Climbing: Comprehensive Tool Selection & Care

The job of the pick is to penetrate the ice, hold against a pull along the shaft, and release easily when its grip is no longer needed. The holding and releasing characteristics of a pick are determined by its weight and shape and by its teeth. A tool with a relatively heavy head cuts and penetrates most readily, but may be difficult to extract because of its greater penetration. Removable weights can be added to the head to help balance your swing and give better ice penetration.

Your Guide to Choosing and Using the Best Ice Axe for Snow Climbing

The first rule is to carry your ice axe carefully. Keep in mind what its sharp points and edges could do to you or your partners. Whenever the axe is not in your hands, be sure it's secure against slipping down a snow slope or cliff. When you're on the move and don't need the axe, the best bet is to slip it through the ice-axe loop on your pack and strap it down.

Running Shoes Prices in Canada versus the United States: Why Canucks Pay More

I am Canadian, living in Canada. And I have a problem. I like running and I like to buy running shoes. Lots of them. A recent survey of runners (run an average of 3.7 times per week) showed that they spend on average 300 per year on running shoes three pairs at 99 each. I am not the only one with a running shoe fetish A recent BMO Nesbitt Burns report indicated that running shoes are 36 cheaper in the U.S. 36 .

Double Rope Climbing vs Single Rope Climbing Advantages and Disadvantages

Speed and Ease of ascent Single rope ascents, are faster and more energy efficient. This is because you are climbing a fixed rope rather than a closed loop. The hip thrust technique requires more arm strength and some level of coordination. Double rope climbing is easier if you use something to help involve your legs in the pulling process, such as a Klemheist foot loop or your lower ascender with the foot loops - but no faster . Ease of descent Because the friction hitch used in the double...

Expert Picks: Best Piton Hammers & Types for Climbers

A piton is a metal pin that is hammered into a crack in the rock. It is described by its thickness, design, and length and provides a secure anchor for a rope that may be attached by a snaplink. There are four configurations used by the U.S. Army. They are the vertical, horizontal, wafer, and angle, which are made of either malleable or hardened steel, and alloys. The strength of the piton is determined more by its placement rather than its rated tensile strength.

Climbing Routes in North Carolina

Linville Gorge provides many areas to climb along it's 12 mile length. The most popular is Table Rock. It's a primary point of access and holds a good number of classic climbs. Also mentioned here is The Amphitheater section of Linville Gorge, home to three popular and classic lines. Linville Gorge Table Rock Table Rock rises about 400 ft. at the northern end, offering many beginner and moderate multi-pitch routes on the south, east, and north sides, as well as many more challenging lines. A...

FAQ: Climbing Physics - Understanding Fall Factors

The fall factor is a derived number used to evaluate the shock loads generated on the climber, belayer and anchors that occur when a climber falls. The higher the fall factor, the greater the forces placed on the components of the system. Actually, it IS possible for a climber to fall farther than the length of the rope. In a worst case situation, the climber can fall TWICE the length of the rope out.

Experience Comfort and Performance with FiveFinger Shoes

Five finger shoes have gained popularity among fitness enthusiasts, hikers, and casual wearers alike for their unique design, versatility, and natural feel. They offer an unparalleled level of comfort and flexibility, allowing wearers to feel more connected to the ground beneath them. In this short guide, we'll highlight some key features to look for in the best five finger shoes.

Rock Climbing Clothing: Selecting High-Performance Fabrics

Clothing for the outdoors is made from a variety of fabrics, each with advantages and disadvantages. Cotton is comfortable to wear when dry but absorbs many times its weight in water and loses its insulating qualities when wet. Because it absorbs so much water, it takes a long time to dry. In hot weather, however, cotton ventilates well and helps cool the body. Wet it down on a hot day, and the water evaporating from the cotton will cool you off.

Climbing Gear 101: Best Nylon Webbing & Rope Setup

When it comes to climbing, safety should always be the top priority. One essential piece of equipment that plays a significant role in ensuring a climber's safety is nylon webbing. The best nylon webbing for climbing exhibits the perfect balance of strength, durability, and versatility.

Five Ways The Body Loses Heat

A. Radiation is direct heat loss from the body to its surroundings. If the surroundings are colder than the body, the net result is heat loss. A nude man loses about 60 of his total body heat by radiation. Specifically, heat is lost in the form of infrared radiation. Infrared targeting devices work by detecting radiant heat loss. B. Conduction is the direct transfer of heat from one object in contact with a colder object. 1 Most commonly conduction occurs when an individual sits or rests...

Best Vibram FiveFingers for Hiking: Trek LS Review

Even though I was looking forward to this product review, I confess that I was a little bit puzzled about what I should expect. Namely, I wasn't sure if Vibram's FiveFingers Trek LS would be a running shoe, hiking shoe, casual shoe, or general all-purpose sneaker. Vibram FiveFingers Trek LS Part of my confusion has to do with Vibram's naming conventions, which have become a little hard to distinguish as the product line has expanded.

General Florida Climbing Information

Despite a lack of any decent climbable rock anywhere in the State, Florida supports a fair number of rock climbers (see Southeast Climber's Registry - Florida). Some are spawned from the many climbing gyms that have sprung up in our larger cities. Others are immigrants who bring their climbing hobbies with them. This guide is written for those who may be planning a visit to the Sunshine State as well as those locals who sit up at night wondering where that one piece of climbable rock is to be...

Arkansas - Sam's Throne and surrounding areas

Sam's Throne is located in the Ozark National Forest about 2.5 hours (130 miles) north of Little Rock and roughly the same time and distance south of Springfield, Missouri. The nearest town is Mt. Judea. A surprising amount of climbing is found in the Ozark mountains of Arkansas. The flat topped mountains are capped by high quality atoka sandstone that is described as similar in quality to that found in the Red River and New River Gorges to the east. This highly featured solid rock is found in...

Ultimate Rappelling Guide: Best Rope & Safe Techniques

To get the rope ready for rappel ling, you attach it to an anchor. In the simplest case, you would untie a runner and retie it around a tree as a rappel sling. Then the midpoint of the rope is suspended from the sling. If you're using just one rope, put one end of the rope through the sling and pull it until you reach the midpoint. Or you can put the sling around the midpoint before you retie it around the tree.

The stairstep prusik

Harness Chest Improvised

This system of climbing the rope uses a separate sling for each leg. You can make a set of slings for yourself, and 25 feet about 8 meters of 6-milli-meter accessory cord is plenty of material for both of them. Getting the size right requires some experimentation. When all the work is done, you should end up with two slings one as long as the distance from your foot to your ears, the shorter one as long as from foot to elbow. Each sling consists basically of a single strand of cord, tied with...

Gentle to moderate slopes

Crampon French Technique

Many climbers find fiat-footing awkward and needlessly complicated when they first try it. Once mastered, however, it provides great security because it keeps you in balance over your feet, with maximum penetration of all vertical crampon points. Ankle strain can be eased by pointing your boots downhill more and more as the slope steepens, so the Hex needed to keep your feet flat comes from the more normal forward flex of the ankle and from the knees, which are bent away from the slope and...

Years Of Climbing Magazine

Welcome to the 40th Anniversary issue of Climbing-woo hoo In a nostalgic mood, I rifled through some of my oldest files, until behind some battered wall topos and faded photographs, I unearthed my first magazine correspondence, circa 1980. No email here these letters were hand-typed-as in, on a typewriter- with xxx-ed typos, and Inked-in spelling corrections, and signed in pen. One was from Mountain magazine, out of the U.K., which was considered the most serious climbing-news source of the...

Ice Climbing

Score an Adirondack 'Hat Trick' Three Classic Multi-Pitch Moderate Routes Climbing up a dark cleft of ice on Multiplication Gully. Climbing is an addictive pursuit and when a highly visible cascade of frozen water demands an ascent, the desire to take on a classic piece of ice can overwhelm one's daily order and gnaw away at the productive soul. Every climbing area possesses its ultimate plum, or plumb line, that beckons like no other.

Climbing With Crampons

Modern crampon technique, evolving from the French and German styles, moves an ice climber efficiently upward with minimum fatigue. Flat-footing is generally used on lower-angle slopes and where point penetration is easy front-pointing is most common on slopes steeper than 45 degrees and on very hard ice. In practice, most climbers blend them into a combination technique. In any technique, the most important element is confident use of the crampons. Practice on gentle and moderate slopes helps...

Index Ice Climbing

Accessories 98-99 aid climbing on ice 181 Aiguille Verte, Nant Blanc Face 2 Alaska, general survey 192-193 Alexander,J. M. 231 Alpamayo 30, 223 alpine ice 12, 15, 1 6, 17 Alps, general survey 198 Am a Dablam, South Face 35, 36 Ames Falls, Colorado 196 Anderegg, Melchior 25 Anderson, Rab 38, 226 Andromeda, Mount, 193 West Shoulder Direct 45-48 Angellucci, Serge 40, 209 Annapurna, South Face 37, 90 Athabasca, Mount, North Face 47, 120, 124, 193 Aubrey, Paul 36 Auger, Tim 33 avalanches 108-111 axe...

Moderate to steep slopes

Piolet Poignard

With steeper ice, other variations of the French technique are called for. At some point, the German technique of front-pointing comes into play. On moderate to steep slopes, you can switch the axe from the cross-body position piolet ramasse to what is known as the anchor position piolet ancre for more security. Your feet remain flat, with all bottom crampon points stamped into the ice at each step. To place the axe in piolet ancre, begin in a position of balance. Grip the ice-axe shaft just...

Vertical ice

The basic method of climbing vertical ice is front-pointing combined with use of two ice tools in piolet traction, in which you pull down on both tools as you ascend (fig. 14-28). The standard position for the feet is about shoulder width apart and level with each other, a stable and relatively comfortable stance. Reach up and plant the pick of one ice tool as high as possible but off to the side a bit so you're not hit by dislodged ice or by a tool that comes loose. Then plant the other tool,...

German technique frontpointing

Developed by the Germans and Austrians for climbing the harder snow and ice of the eastern Alps, front-pointing can take an experienced ice climber up the steepest and most difficult ice slopes. With this technique, even average climbers can quickly overcome sections that would be difficult or impossible with French technique. Front-pointing, in contrast to the choreography of flat-footing, is straightforward and uncomplicated. The technique is much like step-kicking straight up a snow slope,...

Descending Low Angle lie

Ice Climber Lied Floor

Using an axe with a classically curved or slightly drooped pick, it is possible to descend securely either diagonally or facing directly out on slopes of up to 45 , once again depending on the type and quality of the ice. On n v and snow-ice you can descend diagonally pied plat using the axe in the pioift appui manner like a railing, with the head pointing diagonally down in your inside hand, pick punched, but not swung, into the snow. On harder Roped together m a short rope we mode oui way In...

Snow Anchors

Pickets Anchor Webbing

Anchors are needed in snow for the same reasons they are needed on rock. The equipment is different but the purposes are the same to anchor belays and rappcls. But rock anchors are usually easy to inspect and predictable in performance. Snow anchors are not. They vary widely in strength depending on snow conditions and placement, and their strength changes during the day with changes in the snow. This uncertainty makes it even more imperative than on rock to check and recheck any belay or...

Chimney Technique

Chimney Technique

A chimney is any crack big enough to climb inside, ranging in size from those that will barely admit the body squeeze chimneys to those the climber's body can barely span. The basic principle is to span the chimney somehow with the body, using counterforce to keep from falling. Depending on the width of the crack, you will either face one side of the chimney, or face directly into or out of the chimney. The best body position and technique to use depends on the situation and on the size of the...

Seconding long pendulums

Belay Pendulum

All long pendulums require at least one rope in addition to the climbing and haul ropes. There are a number of ways to second a long pendulum, but the method shown in figure 11-30 will handle all such cases. Figure 11-30a All pendulums begin with a leader, of course, who rappels off a bombproof pendulum point using either one rope or two ropes tied together, depending on the width of the pendulum. The rappel rope should be clipped into the anchor so there's no danger of losing it. While on the...

Food and equipment

On expeditions to the remote mountains of the world, you cither take it with you or you do without it. Having the necessary equipment, in working order, is much more critical than on a weekend climb where home is a short drive away. Your expedition needs a complete equipment list, both group and personal, worked out in discussions with all team members. (See the sample equipment list at the end of this chapter.) Food constitutes the heaviest single category of weight carried by an expedition....

Retrieving The Rappel Rope

Retreiving Rappell Rope

Successful rope retrieval after a rappel depends on some important steps even before the last rap-peller starts down the rope. It takes just one frightening experience with a stuck rappel rope to guarantee that you'll always take these precautions. If you're using two ropes for the rappel, they will be tied together near the anchor. It's critical that you know which rope to pull on from below. Full the wrong one, and you'll be attempting the impossible task of pulling the knot through the...

Zpulley System

Pulley System

The Z-pulley system is a simple, easily constructed hauling system Figure 7-26, page 7-30 . a. Considerations. Anchors must be sturdy and able to support the weight of the load. Site selection is governed by different factors tactical situation, weather, terrain, equipment, load weight, and availability of anchors. b. Theory. Use carabiners as a substitute if pulleys are not available. The mechanical advantage obtained in theory is 3 1. The less friction involved the greater the mechanical...

Min Techniques Used In Military Aid Climbing

Ascending With Daisy Chain

Some of the simplest forms of aid climbing are known as Hang Dogging or French Free in the civilian climbing community. Hang Dogging involves clipping into a piece of protection, having the belayer take in all the slack and locking the belay device off so the climber can rest. b. French Free involves using protection to pull up or to stand up on. The most basic method is using aid for one move. 1 Set in a piece of pro and clip an etrier into it. 2 Step into the etrier and slowly transfer...

Other Techniques

Solo Climbing Belay

Climbers don't rope up and belay for every exposed place. There are occasions when it may be safer not to, even though you might wish you could. Rubble-strewn slopes are much more hazardous when dragging a rope. Some terrain has no suitable points for anchors. If you must pass through an area subject to rockfall or avalanche, roping is usually secondary to speed. Very experienced climbers may climb on solid rock well below their limit, third-classing what may nominally be a fifth-class route....

How to read a topographic map

Topo Map Most Beautiful

Consider this a language lesson, but in a language quite easy to learn and one that pays immediate rewards to any wilderness traveler. Some of this language is in words, but most of it is in the form of symbols drawn on a map. The best way to follow the lesson is to study it along with an actual USGS topographic map. Any one will do. Each map is referred to as a quadrangle or quad and covers an area bounded on the north and south by latitude lines that differ by an amount equal to the map...

Coiling The Rope

For carrying or storing, the rope is normally coiled, most commonly in the mountaineeer's coil fig. 6-3 or the butterfly coil fig. 6-4 . Most climbers prefer one or the other, but knowing both is useful. The mountaineer's coil is advantageous when the rope is carried over a pack. But the butterfly coil is faster, doesn't kink the rope, and ties snugly to your body if you are not wearing a pack. Whatever your method, uncoil the rope carefully before use. Untie the cinch knot and then uncoil the...

Types Of Rappels

Figure Climbing

During military mountaineering operations, many types of rappels may be used. The following paragraphs describe some these rappels. a. Hasty Rappel Figure 7-4 . The hasty rappel is used only on moderate pitches. Its main advantage is that it is easier and faster than other methods. Gloves are worn to prevent rope burns. 1 Facing slightly sideways to the anchor, the rappeller places the ropes horizontally across his back. The hand nearest to the anchor is his guide hand, and the other is the...

Use Of Ice Ax And Crampons

Movement over snow and ice is almost impossible without an ice ax and or crampons. a. Ice Ax. When walking on snow or ice, the ice ax can be used as a third point of contact. When the terrain steepens, there are a number of ways to use the ice ax for snow or ice climbing. Some positions are more effective than others, depending on the intended result. You may find other ways to hold and use the ax, as long the security remains in effect. 1 Cane Position. The ice ax can be used on gentle slopes...

Figure Rope teams moving in the accumulation zone of a glacier

Adam Ondra Anseilknoten

2 When conditions warrant, three to four people will tie in to one rope at equal distances from each other. To locate the positions, if three people are on a team, double the rope and one ties into the middle and the other two at the ends. If four people are on a team, form a z with the rope and expand the z fully, keeping the end and the bight on each side of the z even. Tie in to the bights and the ends. 3 Connect to the rope with the appropriate method and attach the Prusik as required. The...

Setting Up A Belay

Self Belay Techniques

In rock climbing, climbers must sometimes make do with marginal protection placements along a route, but belay positions must be made as bombproof as possible. Additionally, the belayer must set up the belay in relation to where the fall force will come from and pay strict attention to proper rope management for the belay to be effective. All belay positions are established with the anchor connection to the front of the harness. If the belay is correctly established, the belayer will feel...

Gear Review: Hydration Packs - Summary

Thanks to everyone who has indulged me this extended product review on hydration packs, and especially to those who sent comments or e-mails sharing their own experience with various models. If you still haven't made up your mind based on the individual reviews (linked at the end of this post, and on right sidebar), hopefully some comparisons and summary thoughts here will help you decide.

Mountaingearcomdimbing

Craig Demartino

President and founder, The Masochist Society If you climb because you love pain, this isn't the harness for you. The Petzl SAMA failed to itch, chafe, scrape or cause pain in our intensive testing sessions. The harness incorporates breathable mesh in both the waist belt and leg loops inside a lightweight frame, taking all the fun and pain out of climbing. The sweat and raw skin that we've come to rely on from snug-fitting harnesses has all but vanished, making this gear utterly useless to pain...

Inov-8 Race Pro 4 Hydration Pack Review

Considering that they are a relative newcomer to the business, Inov-8 has enjoyed a rather impressive rise to prominence within the trail running and adventure racing communities.Inov-8 was founded in the United Kingdom in 2003, and established a US presence in 2004. They quickly made their mark in the sport of ultrarunning by every conceivable means sponsoring numerous events and race series, establishing and supporting teams of runners on both sides of the Atlantic, and contributing to...

L Equam Kkot

Webbing Knots

The process of tying the knot involves a four-step procedure STEP 1 - Holding one working end in each hand, place the working end in the right hand over the one in the left hand. STEP 2 - Pull it under and back over the top of the rope in the left hand. STEP 3 - Place the working end in the left hand over the one in the right hand and repeat STEP 2. STEP 4 - Dress the knot down and secure it with an overhand knot on each side of the square knot. Checkpoints. There are two interlocking bights....

Climbing Software

Inch Climbing Sewn Runner

Climbing software refers to rope, cord, webbing, and harnesses. All mountaineering specific equipment, to include hardware see paragraph 3-4 , should only be used if it has the UIAA certificate of safety. UIAA is the organization that oversees the testing of mountaineering equipment. It is based in Paris, France, and comprises several commissions. The safety commission has established standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment that have become well recognized throughout the world....

Ultimate Direction Wasp Hydration Pack Review

In an earlier review, I mentioned that the hydration pack count at ultras seems to be a two-horse race, with a slight edge to Nathan.Well remember this year's Kentucky Derby, when Mine That Bird stormed back from about 30 lengths behind to cruise to victory in the homestretch That's the analogy I'd use to describe the Ultimate Direction Wasp right now making enormous strides on the field, poised to charge ahead at any moment.

Improvised Harnesses

Making Chest Harness From Rope

Without the use of a manufactured harness, many methods are still available for attaching oneself to a rope. Harnesses can be improvised using rope or webbing and knots. a. Swami Belt. The swami belt is a simple, belt-only harness created by wrapping rope or webbing around the waistline and securing the ends. One-inch webbing will provide more comfort. Although an effective swami belt can be assembled with a minimum of one wrap, at least two wraps are recommended for comfort, usually with...

Homemade Seat Harnesses

Improvised Seat Harness

Homemade seat harnesses are an option for linking yourself to the rope, and you can make a simple one from 22 feet of 1-inch tubular webbing. Starting about 41 2 feet from one end of the webbing, tie two leg loops in the webbing using overhand loops. Make the loops just large enough to fit over your clothing, and leave about a 6-inch bridge between the loops. Once tied, leave the loops in place. That completes construction of the harness. To wear it, step into the leg loops and wrap the webbing...

Vintage Climbing Babes, We Salute You

Long before leopard print chalk bags and ladies' climbing nights, badass women were knocking down the door of the rock climbing boy's club. From chest harnesses to feathered hair, these women left their bras at home and paved the way for lady-climbers like us.We salute you Catherine Destivelle, 1986 This Algerian-born French climber (and total babe) was the first female to solo the Eiger's North Face and has a number of 8a+ climbs under her belt.

Natural Anchors

Anchor Rope Rappel

The best natural anchor is a living good-sized, well-rooted tree. The rappel rope usually goes through a runner that is attached to the anchor. If you can attach this runner to a tree branch rather Fig. 8-10. Runner looped around a rock horn a, a dangerous rappel anchor b, runner rides up and off rock horn. Fig. 8-10. Runner looped around a rock horn a, a dangerous rappel anchor b, runner rides up and off rock horn. than low on the trunk, it helps limit the rope's contact with the ground,...

Min Retrieving The One Rope Bridge

9 Before the bridge NCO sends the last Marine to cross, they must make the bridge retrievable. b The first step is to break down the mechanical advantage, ensuring the braking knot is set before doing so. The system will be broken down until the bridging line is attached only to the brake knot. 9 They will now take the rope around to the back of the anchor, and tie a slip figure 8, with the loop of the slip 8, take it and attach it to the bridging line just in back of the braking knot with a...

Assisted Hoist Climbing

Assisted Hoist Climbing

A How severe is the injury involved Q What's the location of the injured climber i.e. less then half the distance of the rope or more then half the distance of the rope d Do you have enough gear to conduct the rescue 9 Can the other climbing teams in the area assist you in the rescue f. How familiar are the climbers with the rescue techniques NOTE The answers to the above questions will determine which method should be used to rescue the climber. TRANSITION Now that we have discussed the...

Min Inspection Of Rope

All ropes have to be inspected before, during, and after all operations. Kernmantle rope is harder to inspect than a laid rope. I.e. green line. The Assault Climber must know what to look and feel for when inspecting a rope. Any of the below listed deficiencies can warrant the retirement of a rope. xcessive Fraying. Indicates broken sheath bundles or PIC breakage. xposed Core Fibers. Indicates severe sheath damage. When you can see the inner core fibers Uniformity of Diameter Size. May indicate...

Bibliography Of References

TC 90-6-1, Military Mountaineering b. USMC Battle Skills Training Book c. Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, 6th Edition, The Mountaineers, Seattle WA 1996. d. MCRP 3-35.1, Commander's Guide to Cold Weather Operations e. MCRP 3-35.1A, Small Unit Leader's Guide to Cold Weather Operations f. MCRP 3-35.2B Military Mountaineering g. MCWP 3-35.2, Mountain Operations h. The Royal Marine's Mountain and Arctic Warfare Handbook, 1972 Marine Assault Climber's Kit a. Marine Corps Stocklist,...

Saucony Pro Grid Kinvara Shoe Review

This review began a little bit awkwardly.When a Saucony rep contacted me to propose a review of the ProGrid Kinvara, I knew one thing right off the bat She must not read my blog. But I was curious to see where things might lead, so I sent her the following reply Thanks for contacting me. In the interest of full disclosure, you should know that I kind of ripped Saucony in a recent post.And then I included the link to this post where I ridiculed Saucony's marketing campaign for the Kinvara.

New Balance Minimus Zero Road Review and Giveaway

New Balance was the first major player in the running shoe industry to embrace the minimalist movement - and thanks to their slow-boil marketing campaign (aided at times by this website), their Minimus Road and Trail models were perhaps the highest-profile releases of 2011.Unfortunately for purists like me, the shoes were just a'ight they had some compelling features - especially the trail model, with one of the most comfortable upper materials ever but also some fatal flaws such as a higher...

Brooks Green Silence Running Shoe Review

Since I probably won't be able to avoid them later on, let's just go ahead and get all of the wise cracks about the Green Silence out of the way first * Part of the name is Green , even though the color scheme is red and yellow.* The other part of the name is Silence , even though the bright colors kind of scream at you like an ambulance siren.* It's an eco-friendly shoe that looks like it rolled off the assembly line at McDonalds.

How To Break In Too Tight Climbing Shoes

You know that feeling when you get a fresh new pair of climbing shoes, and they are so pretty, and you are so psyched on them And you insist that this is the correct shoe for you, as you cram and contort your foot to get the shoe on. Then you start to climb in them and you're thinking to yourself Did my feet get bigger I know I'm usually a size 38. You make it through one climb, and wincing you take your shoe off, and your foot is already starting to look like something from a horror film.

Ecco Biom Running Shoe Review

Of all the shoes I'm reviewing this fall, none are quite as intriguing as the ECCO BIOM. Anytime a company brings a 220 running shoe to the market, there's going to be immediate skepticism over whether the cost is justified. But when you consider how the shoe was conceived, and all of its unique design innovations, and its elusive combination of high comfort and high durability you could make a compelling case in favor of it.

Advancing the Rope

If you want to go beyond the first limb, it is necessary to understand the principles involved in advancing your rope. In tree climbing, every time you set another anchor above the one that is supporting you, it is referred to as advancing that you are on to the next anchor limb. You then proceed exactly as you would if you were on the ground starting your first pitch. For some reason, this seems to be a hard thing for some newcomers to get a handle on until it is tried, but it is as simple as...

Descending Device

Sistema Digestivo Reptiles

Descending devices (also called belay rappel devices) are designed to create friction on the rope during a rappel, so that the descent can be easily controlled. They are not required in double rope descents as the friction is provided by the knot. If you are single rope climbing though it is a necessary piece of gear. The simplest and most readily available is the figure eight although the number and variety of descending devices is truly astonishing. The figure eight is shown below in the most...

Part C Rappelling

Rappel Tower Tie Off

Rappelling and down climbing are both means of descending the choice is based on mission, situation, equipment, terrain available anchors , weather, number of troops involved, and time and equipment available. The technique of rappelling involves the quick descent of a climber and the retrieval of the rope from the bottom. The selection of the rappel point depends on factors such as mission, cover, route, anchor points, and edge composition loose or jagged rocks . The anchor point should be...

Fixed Rope With Intermediate Anchors

Mountain Climbing With Anchors

Whenever the route varies from the fall line of the slope, the fixed rope must be anchored at intermediate anchor points Figure 7-3 . Intermediate anchor points should also be used on any long routes that exceed the length of a single rope. The use of intermediate anchor points creates independent sections and allows for changes in direction from one section to the next. The independent sections allow for more personnel to move on the fixed rope. This type of fixed rope is commonly used along...

Friction Hitch or Double Rope Climbing

This is the setup for double rope climbing. Because the terminology is somewhat confusing, we will rename some of these things to make it easier to follow. The running part will be called the hanging part since you are hanging on that part . The standing part we will refer to as the Hauling part since that is the part you haul on. The tail of rope that the Blake's Hitch is tied in will remain the bridge. To climb, clip your locking carabiner between your...

How to Identify a Good Anchor Limb

What are good limbs to set your anchors on and what are not Most live limbs over four inches in diameter are good. As with all rules though, there are exceptions. These are the things to consider when selecting your anchor 1. What species is the tree Limbs as small as three inches in diameter can usually be used for anchors in hardwoods like oak and beech. Softer wooded trees require a larger limb than 4 inches for safe anchoring. Leam your tree species. 2. What type of anchor are you using If...

Single Rope Technique

Note Again, this step has the potential of being confusing when you are in the tree. If you have never done this before, find someone who has experience and get their help The following instructions are for your information only and not intended as a substitute for an experienced teacher To descend on a single rope, the ascending devices need to be changed for some type of descending device. The easiestplace to set this up is from a comfortable limb. Ideally, the limb would be just below the...

Munter Hitch

This is not really a knot but a running twist in the rope that is used as a substitute for a descending device should you drop or forget to carry yours while single rope climbing. It simply provides friction by running the rope over itself and the carabiner. It is veiy effective but tends to put a lot of twists in the rope. This knot is used whenever a midline loop is needed. I use it primarily to form the loop in the center of a double split-tail Similar knots Figure-8 on a bight Care of...

Tyrolean Traverses

Tyrolean traverses are most often used to return to a main wall after ascending a detached pillar. Ropes are strung between the main wall and the top of the pillar, allowing you to traverse through the air, attached to the rope. You can establish a Tyrolean traverse like this 1. After setting up a bombproof anchor on the main wall one that can take both a horizontal and vertical pull rappel on two ropes to the saddle between the main wall and the pinnacle. (You can use just one rope for the...

Single Rope Climbing

Single Rope Technique Climbing Tree

Note I discourage beginning climbers from using this method of ascent without the presence of an experienced climber as the switch from ascending to descending rappelling poses some potential dangers. I discuss it here only to allow the reader to see how it works. Blake's Hitch currently being used to climb. Darker rope is the Double split-tail Blake's Hitch on the other end of the same rope ready for use on the next anchor. In this type of ascent, the rope is put over the limb, a loop is tied...

Vivobarefoot Kids' Shoes Giveaway*; Vivobarefoot Kids' Shoes Coupon Code

* Or, Baby Needs a New Pair of Shoes Presuming that most of my readers aren't in the age 7-and-under demographic, this week's VIVOBAREFOOT contest isn't for you rather, it's a chance to pay a giveaway forward. More accurately, you'll be paying it down, to the little feet of someone you love. That's because the prize is a pair of VIVOBAREFOOT kids' shoes.I first reviewed this line of shoes in September, when my then-six-year-old daughter was drafted into service for Running and Rambling Inc.

Vivobarefoot Breatho Trail Follow-Up Review

Back in January I offered a first look at the VIVOBAREFOOT Breatho Trail, running down the specs and offering my impressions of the shoe after all of 2 runs (long-ish runs, but still). At that time, the shoes weren't available for purchase, but they are now which seems like a good time to circle back for an updated review after giving them a much more thorough test of nearly 200 total miles.

Merrell Barefoot Tough Glove Review

Despite the recent explosion in minimalist athletic shoe options over the couple of years, the dress shoe market has been very slow to keep pace. Prior to this spring, that market was essentially dominated by VIVOBAREFOOT's extensive collection, along with a few single-model options from various manufacturers such as the Sanuk Boardroom, the Simple Gumshoe, or the Patagonia Pau (review coming soon) that offer reasonable crossover appeal for natural movement proponents.

Barefoot Running Shoe Review: Vivobarefoot Evo

After many months of running in my Nike Free's, I was ready to dive deeper into the world of minimalist running shoes. About three weeks ago, I ordered my new VIVOBAREFOOT Evo's (in white and red). I first tried the Evo's on when I was in London on my way back to Canada. They fit my foot amazingly well, but I must admit spending that much money (the Evo's retail for 100.00) on a pair of shoes that felt like a pair of cheap aqua socks I used to wear at the lake (i.e.

Merrell Barefoot Road Glove Review and Giveawa

In last month's Gear of the Year post I mentioned that 2011 might be considered the year that Merrell caused a seismic shift in the footwear landscape with its outstanding Barefoot series of shoes.Here was a major industry player embracing the minimalist movement, taking the lead in instruction and promotion of natural running technique, and creating several different varieties of shoes to choose from with each one maintaining the company's high standards of workmanship and performance.

Newton Gravity Running Shoe Review

No great discovery was ever made without a bold guess. - Sir Isaac Newton, 1643-1727When I reviewed their original Gravity trainers last September, I made reference to the fact that Newton was barely a three-year-old business founded by a pair of guys with very little industry experience prior to entering the high-performance running shoe game. The company was named after a historic scientist, and offered a product whose design flew in the face of all the conventional wisdom of the day.

Vivo Barefoot Evo Running Shoe Review

Selling a product that's in high demand is usually a good situation for a company to find itself in - but having something that's in too much demand can be somewhat problematic as well. Just ask VivoBarefoot. Since debuting its Evo running shoes in February, the company has scrambled to keep up with demand for them on both sides of the pond. Given that VivoBarefoot is based in the UK, customers in America were often at the end of the line when it came to availability.

Vivobarefoot Neo Running Shoe Review ... And Giveaway Maybe

Kind of a vague announcement in the title there, huh Don't worry, I'll explain as we go along - but for now let's get straight to the post *No one will ever accuse VIVOBAREFOOT of resting on their laurels.It would have been fairly easy, and completely understandable, for the company to say, You know what We nailed the minimalist performance running shoe this year let's just roll with this one for a while.

Winter Glove Review and Giveaway: Manzella Hatchback and Sprint Gloves, Saucony Vizi Pro Gloves

1) You've got a little more time to enter the Drymax trail running socks giveaway, which ends Tuesday at 5PM PST. Winners will be announced in a separate post Tuesday night.2) Remember to enter the VIVOBAREFOOT Dharma, Oak, and Kali contest for a chance to win a great pair of minimalist work shoes. Be sure to get extra entries by sharing links and using capital letters The winner will be announced Friday evening.

Soft Star Run-A-Moc Release Update

As the market debut of Soft Star's new running moccasin rapidly approaches, the company is releasing some advance information about the mocs, and still soliciting feedback on the official name. (For the life of me, I can't fathom why they can't possibly come up with anything better than Run-A-Moc. But apparently I only get one vote.) Links are below for casting your vote but first, if you're interested, here's some more photos and information about the final street model I received last week.

Vivobarefoot Dharma, Oak, or Kali Work Shoe Giveaway and Coupon Code

Before today's post, a somewhat befuddling administrative note apparently I've been writing the name of the company in question incorrectly all this time. I used to write it as Vivo Barefoot, and then it was pointed out to me that Terra Plana (the London-based company who makes the VB line of footwear) preferred for it to be written VivoBarefoot (no space in between) and now I recently learned that the official presentation is VIVOBAREFOOT - in all caps, like it's being shouted or something.

Salomon Trail III Running Tights Review and Giveaway; Wilderness Running Company Gift Card Giveaway

I know this is getting to be a habit but let's start this post by keeping everyone in the loop with ongoing contests * You've got until 5PM PST Thursday to enter the Manzella and Saucony glove contest.* The VIVOBAREFOOT (remember - all caps ) work shoes giveaway closes on Friday at 5PM PST.* Keep sending me winter running photos to enter the LaSportiva Crossover GTX and Wildcat GTX giveaways on December 22.

Patagonia Pau Shoe Review

In previous posts I've lamented how relatively limited the formal minimalist footwear market is compared to the myriad of athletic and or sandal styles available. Today's review features another addition to the dressy minimal category, and happens to be from one of my favorite companies Patagonia, whose name is almost synonymous with high performance and social responsibility.

Running barefoot and barefoot alternatives

So, you're looking to learn more about barefoot running or find a barefoot alternative to wear before totally going the way of a cave man Whether the current media attention being given to barefoot running has peaked your curiosity or your own running has come to a halt from annoying running injuries (think IT band syndrome, plantar fasciitis or low back pain), learning more about the theory behind barefoot running can help you become a better runner.

Vivobarefoot Ultra and Ultra Pure Review

Although I've reviewed a lot of VIVOBAREFOOT shoes in the past, one notable model flew under my radar - perhaps because I never knew what to make of it. VIVOBAREFOOT Ultra The company's Ultra is the shoe equivalent of a Rorschach test whatever you want to see in it, that's what it can be. It was originally released in 2011 as a beach or travel shoe, but it's equally suitable as a casual shoe or a super-lightweight running shoe.

Newton Terra Momentus Trail Running Shoe Review

One administrative note before today's review Jason over at Strength Running has been kind enough to host a giveaway contest for one of my Running Life books. Head over to this post to enter the contest. Thanks very much to Jason, and good luck to everyone who enters ** If I have done the public any service, it is due to my patient thought.

Icebreaker GT 200 Sprint Legging Review

Quick administrative note the Black Diamond Icon contest is officially closed, but you've got a little bit of time left - until close of business Friday - to enter the VIVOBAREFOOT Neo running shoe giveaway. Winners of both contests will be announced over the weekend. In the meantime, a review post for your enjoyment *When your choice of workout wear has a positive impact on your marital relationship, that's a pretty cool thing, right That was one of the conclusions I drew after reviewing...

Vivo Barefoot Evo II Review and Giveaway; Vivo Barefoot Evo Coupon Code

Sometimes I feel like I know how a review is going to go, almost before I take the shoes out of the box.Case in point is VivoBarefoot's Evo II, which I was given the opportunity to test in conjunction with this week's giveaway, the first of several VivoBarefoot prize contests in December.

Things Fall Apart

Since my previous post demonstrated quite forcefully, as it happened one of the drawbacks of minimalist footwear, this seems like a good time to throw together a collection of photos that address some other shortcomings of my most heavily-used trail runners over the past several weeks.Mainly, the issue is one of durability, and each of my favorite brands VivoBarefoot, Soft Star, and Vibram have demonstrated some limitations in this regard.

Vivobarefoot Functional/Waterproof Boots Review and Giveaway; Vivobarefoot Boots Coupon Code

When it comes to footwear, two concepts you don't typically associate with each other are barefoot and boots.Minimalist shoe aficionados generally seek the lightest, lowest profile footwear that's necessary to protect their feet while still allowing good ground feel and natural foot function. And boot wearers tend to like em big, either with tall sexy heels for women, hard-stomping heels and steel toes for cowboys and construction workers, or rugged sturdy midsoles for hikers of both genders.

Deadlifting For Climbing

Deadlifts strengthen your posterior chain which helps keep your hips closer to the wall. With winter training season in full swing, today's post presents a reason to hit the weight room in order to make climbing gains. Deadlifts strengthen the lower back muscles which will have a secondary benefit of improving overall lifting form in daily life While I am a proponent of using all the compound lifts (bench press, press, deadlift, and even squat) as conditioning for climbing, I have found that...

Part C Equipment And Maintenance

Cta 900 Clothing

This is an overview of conventional military equipment and the latest items used by the climber. Movement. Before starting an operation, units must master techniques and equipment use. Movement over mountainous terrain cannot always be accomplished without special equipment. This equipment makes it possible for the military mountaineer to build installations and negotiate rock masses and ice areas quickly and safely. As a military climber, you will soon learn the value of specialized equipment,...

Super Couloir Direct Mont Blanc du Tacu France

Grand Central Couloir Kitchener

Mont Blanc du Tacul is a veritable ice-climbing university. This one mountain, which is accessible in an hour or so from the trttyhtriijue of the Aiguille du Midi on the French side or Courmayeur on the Italian side , harbors more than a dozen classic ice climbs and several excellent mixed routes. These range in difficulty from the 45 Gervasutti Couloir grade HI, Al2, 3,000 feet to the Super Couloir Direct grade V, WI5-, M6, 2,800 feet , one of the most compelling high-mountain ice climbs I...

Techniques Of Protection Leading A Pitch

Reducing Drag Quick Draws Zigzag

After you get to know the tools for protection and how to place them, it's time for the next move literally. It's one thing to recognize a Stopper and a hex and a Friend and to be able to use them in individual placements. You can learn all this at home or while standing safely at the base of a cliff. It's another thing to get up on the cliff and take the lead. You now need to learn the protection techniques that let you use these tools safely in mapping strategy for an entire pitch. You'll...

Internet Web Sites

Army Publishing Agency http www.usapa.army.mil Army Doctrine and Training Digital Library http www.adtdl.army.mil acute mountain sickness, 2-6, 2-8, 2-21 anchors, 5-1 to 5-16 artificial, 5-8 to 5-15 bolts, 5-14, 5-16 illus chocks, 5-11 placement, 5-12, 5-13 illus deadman, 5-8 pitons, 5-9 hero loop, 5-10 illus placement, 5-9, 5-10 illus removal, 5-11 illus reusing, 5-11 spring-loaded camming device, 5-13, 5-14 illus natural, 5-1 boulders, 5-2 illus bushes and shrubs, 5-4 illus chockstones,...

Snow And Ice Anchors

Feather Cartoon Images

Ice and snow anchors consist of snow pickets, flukes, deadman-type anchors, ice screws, and ice pitons. Deadman anchors can be constructed from snowshoes, skis, backpacks, sleds, or any large items. a. Ice Pitons. The ice piton is used to establish anchor points. The ice piton is not seen in modern ice climbing but may still be available to the military. The standard ice piton is made of tubular steel and is 10 inches in length. Ice pitons installed in pairs are a bombproof anchor however, ice...

The Southwest Buttress of Taufflraju Cordillera Blanca Peru

Zero Gully Ben Nevis Route

Translated from the native Quechuan, taulliraju means 'flower of ice. It is an apt description of a peak straight out of a climber's flight of fancy. Hovering over the ancient Incan pass of Punta Union like a crystal hummingbird, the mountain is at its most alluring and mystical in late afternoon light, with clouds swirling around its twin granite pillars. The south pillar was the scene of Nicolas Jaegers inspired solo climb in 1979, The southwest pillar is even more attractive, with its comet...

Gimme Shelter Mount Quadra Canadian Rockies

Gimme Shelter Canadian Rockies

Al Low tad the tatredtfctery pitch on on MMK lt e f l attempt on Gimme Shelter Al Low tad the tatredtfctery pitch on on MMK lt e f l attempt on Gimme Shelter 1 first saw this line in October 1980, when 1 went into the Valley of the Ten Peaks to solo the Supercouloir on Mount Deltaform. On the drive in to the parking area at Moraine Lake, I noticed the impressive streak of ice plastered to the 1,000-foot rock band below the hanging glacier on the East Face of Mount Quadra. Although it was only...

Snow And Ice Climbing Hardware

Mountaineering With Rigid Crampons

Snow and ice climbing hardware is the equipment that is particular to operations in some mountainous terrain. Specific training on this type of equipment is essential for safe use. Terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible snowfields, glaciers, frozen waterfalls can now be considered avenues of approach using the snow and ice climbing gear listed in this paragraph. a. Ice Ax. The ice ax is one of the most important tools for the mountaineer operating on snow or ice. The climber must become...

Cascade Climbing In France

Climbing Into Space

In this book I have given special prominence to the laws that govern gravity. Stephen Hawking, A Brief History of Time For almost two decades the commonly held conceit among North American ice climbers has been that they set the standard for the esoteric activity of climbing frozen waterfalls. Even European climbers seemed to agree, many of the best of them making a pilgrimage to Canada to do such classics as La Pomme d'Or in Quebec or Weeping Pillar, Polar Circus, and the like in the Rockies....

Climbing Extreme he

As you approach the vertical, there will come a time when you will no longer be able to stand in balance over your frontpoints. Although it is possible by brute strength to hold yourself vertically up against the ice, a far more efficient method is something I have termed the monfcey hang Beginning at the bottom of a near-vertical, vertical, or gently overhanging section of ice, the correct sequence is as follows 1. Plant both hand tools comfortably high and far enough apart so that there is no...

Symmetric Chouinard Mid-size Hex

Camming Devices Mechanism

Design variations in passive wedging chocks a, wide side, straight sides b, narrow side, straight sides c, wide side, curved sides d, narrow side, curved sides e, top view, rectangular f, top view, trapezoidal. Fig. 10-7. Wide-side and narrow-side placement of passive wedging chocks a, wide sides are in contact with the rock, a stronger placement b, narrow sides are in contact with the rock, a weaker placement. have slightly curved sides. They can also have a combination of straight...

Climbing Hardware

Hand Drill Piton Ring Climb

Climbing hardware refers to all the parts and pieces that allow the trained mountain soldier to accomplish many tasks in the mountains. The importance of this gear to the mountaineer is no less than that of the rifle to the infantryman. a. Carabiners. One of the most versatile pieces of equipment available to the mountaineer is the carabiner. This simple piece of gear is the critical connection between the climber, his rope, and the protection attaching him to the mountain. Carabiners must be...

Tubular Ice Screws

Depending on the quality of the ice, a well-placed tubular screw will hold from two thousand to five thousand pounds, providing excellent protection. In rotten ice, screws hold very little. Obviously, longer screws with larger diameters and deeper threads will hold better in snow-ice and rotten ice. In solid water ice, long screws are unnecessary, In practice, 90 percent of the time you can get by with screws eight to On WH npproodwi ami low-angl smew and ke, lelescttpk ski poles ere we...

The North Wall Era Ice Climbing

Climbing Rope Hemp Ice Axe

Climbers experiencing what the Scots call 'full conditions 27 Scottish Gullies and North W lls The nailed boots, hemp rape, ten-point tampons, and collapsible 90cm straight-pick ice axe that represented state-of-the-art ice-climbing gear hiring the dank 'North Woll Era of the 1910s and '30 Phto Kern Rokrl Nevis in 1906, cutting steps with a long axe and wearing nailed boots as in the Alps. On a 1974 pilgrimage, I made an ascent of the route as one of my first climbs in Scotland Even with the...

Part A General Techniques

Shoulder Movements Rock Climbing

All leaders operating in mountainous areas must be oriented and skilled in military mountaineering. The execution and success of the mission in mountainous operations depend on the level of individual and unit skill proficiency and conditioning. Only through practice and repetition do actions become reflexive and is the goal of high individual and unit proficiency realized. Personnel trained in mountain operations should form the cadre to train unit personnel. Before undertaking mountain...

Blind Faith Tte de Gramusat France

Tete Gramusat

The T te de Gramusat is the location of several of the longest and most difficult waterfall climbs in Europe. A 1,400-foot-high limestone ziggurat draped in fangs and curtains of ice, its main face was first ascended in January 1991 by Frenchman Fran ois Damilano and Scotsman Robin Clothier. They called their route Gramusat Direct. Although the climb does go up the center of the face, it is not actually direct in that it diagonals from left to right to avoid a huge roof 500 feet above the...